Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rincon - Center Route & R
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 
Briggs variation to Rincon T 
Camouflage S 
Center Route T 
Concentric T 
Counterstroke T 
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 
Five-Ten Crack T 
Front Side Lip Smack T 
Green Room, The T 
Killing Fields, The T 
Mind Over Matter T,TR 
Neato T,TR 
On the Crest T 
Outer Limbits T,TR 
Point Break T,S 
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 
Rincon T 
Rincon Dink T 
Rincon Light T 
Rinodina T 
Spicoli S 
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 
Warp Riders T 

Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA Olevsky, 1975, FFA Ken Duncan & Scott Blunk, 1977
Page Views: 1,879
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The crux moves are getting to this stance and gett...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the route to the right of 5.10 crack, it follows incipient seams up a slightly less than vertical wall. While only 40 feet long this is a pretty classic toprope, it can be toproped off of the tree atop 5.8 crack along with some gear out left for a directional. Short, but it has some classic face moves. (a little soft for the grade too). [It is also known as Thunderbolts or Thunderbolt]


Protection 

I have not (yet) lead this excellent toprope, but have inspected the protection and was able to get in reasonable gear at all the hard parts, back when they didn't have micro gear this was an x rated lead.



Photos of Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Raccoon Soup.
Leading Raccoon Soup.
TR on Raccoon Soup.
TR on Raccoon Soup.
Comments on Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 5, 2008
By Andrew Wellman
Jan 1, 2001

I watched someone lead this route today (3/4/01). It was very impressive. The route apparently had good gear cause he sewed it up like I sewed up 5.10 crack, with seven pieces including a cam or two!!

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001

A favorite Eldo gem...although quite short, the climbing is excellent, and with a couple sets of RPs and several micro cams, the gear is good. Still, a challenging lead that is toproped 99% of the time. A grade of 5.11c seems reasonable. Ken Duncan is credited with leading this first in 1977, calling it "Thunderbolts". It was later led by Chris Peisker, a very talented Australian climber who was responsible for introducing RPs to the Eldo scene that summer (I paid $12 for a set of 6). Chris was (and still is) an extremely graceful and controlled climber, really special to watch. He left a legacy in Colorado including the seldom-repeated "Peisker Crack" in Elevenmile Canyon. He currently co-runs the rock climbing guide service in Arapiles, although word is he is more into golfing than climbing these days.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 5, 2002

Whatever name you choose to use, this is an excellent and sustained route. The only thing that has changed about this route is that, with modern gear, it should not even get a severe rating. At every crux there is at least one bomber RP or small cam placement that would hold a good whipper. A definite must do and a classic lead in my book.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2002
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I'd give it an PG-13 on the current scale because it is hard to hang in there and make the placements. The stances are not all positive and I think that it's hard to fiddle in the gear.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2002
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Don't be put off by the above comment if your considering leading this gem. I found a good stance for every placement and to top it off the gear is really obvious (small cams and RPs). This was probably my 5th or 6th 5.11 in Eldo and didn't feel that bad for the grade. Its reputation makes it out to be far harder than it actually is.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 3, 2003

[Definitely] no reason for the 's' rating lots of gear, only complaint is that it is short.

By Chris Archer
May 10, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It's my understanding that [Chris] Peisker first led this stellar pitch in 77. I suspect the differences of opinion regarding the difficulty and protection ultimately reduces to height. Climbers 5'8" and under will have a difficult time placing the RPs at the roof. For me, the placements are either blind or difficult, time consuming and skin shredding. If the placements at the roof blew as you pulled the crux, you might be hurt in the fall, although probably not badly.

By Ken Duncan
Aug 27, 2004

My understanding is that Alec Sharp actually gave this route the name Raccoon Soup after he did it in the early eighties (?1981). I climbed with both Chris Peisker and his partner Coral Bowman when they were here in the '70s and hadn't heard that Chris had done this route but he certainly may have. Both Chris and Coral were excellent climbers and neat people who were a major part of the climbing community while they were here. Ultimately who did a route first really doesn't make a big difference to me, having good quality climbing available is the important thing. Personally I'd take a a repeat of a great route over the first ascent of a so-so route anyday.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Mar 22, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I lead this in Nov. of '06 and found the gear quite adequate. I placed an orange, green, blue and black Alien on the lower section and even fell on the black Alien a few times from the small roof. So, I think the route is pretty safe with the new micro cams that are available.

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 14, 2007

The reference I've found for "Raccoon Soup" is Alec Sharp's "Boulder New Climbs '81" p21. This credits the "first ascent" as Chris Peisker, Christian Griffith 8-12-1980. So Ken Duncan and Scott Blunk did indeed do the FA in 1977.

By Brian Weinstein
Mar 5, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Ken, tough to imagine a FFA without RPs. Great route.