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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
Hot Links T 
Hot Spur, The T 
Lost in Space T 
Maverick T 
Miller- Light Deviation, The T 
Northumberland Crack T 
Paris Girl S 
Piece of the Sun  T 
Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
Razors to Rubble T 
Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
Roof Wall, The T 
Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
Sunstar T 
Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Rabbits From Hats 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Archer, Todd Bibler, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Sep 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Starting the crux.

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  • Description 

    Climb directly up the finger crack start for Disappearing Act. At the rest on DA before the crux moves into the dihedral, layback up and left to an obvious #3-3.5 Friend placement. Climb & layback up the corner for a few moves to a horizontal out left. Get fail safe cams here. Climb up until you are standing on the horizontal and place a good nut and RPs. Continue straight up, clipping a fixed pin along the way, to reach the top of the first half of Disappearing Act. Continue up the second half of DA.

    Location 

    Start on Disappearing Act and head left and up just before DA's crux. Finish on DA. Rap or lower.

    Protection 

    For Rabbits finishing on DA: RPs, Nuts, Aliens/C4s, 2 sets of Friends 1-3, (1) 3.5 and 4.


    Photos of Rabbits From Hats Slideshow Add Photo
    Nearing the pin. <br /> <br />Photo: Nick Archer.
    Nearing the pin.

    Photo: Nick Archer.
    Reaching the horizontal.
    Reaching the horizontal.

    Comments on Rabbits From Hats Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 5, 2010
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun.
    My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent.
    -Scott