Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Climb directly up the finger crack start for Disappearing Act. At the rest on DA before the crux moves into the dihedral, layback up and left to an obvious #3-3.5 Friend placement. Climb & layback up the corner for a few moves to a horizontal out left. Get fail safe cams here. Climb up until you are standing on the horizontal and place a good nut and RPs. Continue straight up, clipping a fixed pin along the way, to reach the top of the first half of Disappearing Act. Continue up the second half of DA.
Fun little outing, maybe 30' of independent climbing. The gear is good, and the moves are strenuous and fun. My only complaint is the "direct" start (described above), following the crack from the beginning up to the #3 Friend slot, is pretty contrived, since you can stem back into the "Disappearing Act" corner very easily. Above that, though, "Rabbits" does move left and becomes more independent. -Scott