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R5 - The Love Button
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 8
votes
Routes in The Big Gash
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L1 - Carving the Gash S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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L16 - Bog of the Eternal Stench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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L2 - Wargasm T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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L3 - TerrorJism S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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L4 - The Deafening Roar of Silence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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L8 - The Day After T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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R1 - Slopey Seconds S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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R10 - Muskrat Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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R11 - Sweet Deception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R12 - Beaver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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R13 - Mixed Emotions S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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R14 - Happy Emotions S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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R15 - The Happy Compromise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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R16 - Coital Sponge Pad S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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R17 - Intestinal Fortitude T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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R2 - Tweakin' The Xenophobes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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R3 - Chicken McNabbitts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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R4 - Frigging the Nubbin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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R5 - The Love Button S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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R6 - Welcome To The Gash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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R7 - Throwing Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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R8 - Serpents Of Paradise S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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R9 - Bulgey Wood T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sex Panther T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Brent Kertzman, Mike Cronin |
| Page Views: | 656 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Brent Kertzman on Apr 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
The route begins and ends on some crystals. About 15' up a short overhung lieback is encountered followed by some tricky route finding up the wavy face above. Eventually a horizontal slash cuts across the face. Above the slash one will encounter "The Love Button" which is part of the crux. Resist the temptation to fondle the orb of pleasure too long or you'll get bucked off.
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