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 ADVANCED
Rupley Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asleep at the Wheel T,TR 
Bop Til You Drop T,S 
Border Patrol T,S 
Chewrocka T 
ET Arete S 
Jabba the Butt T 
Millennium Falcon S 
Moving over Stone S 
Obe Wan Kanobee T,S 
Out on Bail S 
R-2 D-2 T 
R1 T 
R3 T 
R4 T 
r5 T,TR 
Team Toads T,S 

R4 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 3,689
Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 26, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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All good things come in threes. Emily on the fina...

Description 

Approach as for R1 through R3. Further along this wall at the last tower (before the Tri-Level), you will find a bolt line. This is Moving Over Stone, 5.11. Just to the right of this there is a ramp leading right to a bolt (the direct start straight up to the bolt is very thin 5.10). This is R4. Climb past the lone bolt to the crack in the roof. Up this to a large chimney. There are chains at the back of the chimney. Rappel these.

Long route with lots of pro available.


Protection 

Small nuts to yellow Camalot.



Photos of R4 Slideshow Add Photo
Higher on the face.
BETA PHOTO: Higher on the face.
And better luck the second try.
BETA PHOTO: And better luck the second try.
Jon trying to use his head as a camming device.
BETA PHOTO: Jon trying to use his head as a camming device.
Steep section before the bulge.
BETA PHOTO: Steep section before the bulge.
R4
BETA PHOTO: R4
Comments on R4 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that the traverse is the crux and it will certainly get your attention, but it also adds to this route being a classic.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 29, 2006

Have to agree with jbak on this one, pull your head out dude. Also the hand crack is higher up not just over the roof and like most Lemmon cracks it is used more for pro than climbing. One last thing for the person that entered this description. Do you really need to give a blow by blow making it impossible for people to have the full onsight experience?

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Even though the grades aren't too far apart (5.8+ vs 5.9), this is a much stouter route than R-1.

After the initial rap off the tower, you can get back to your packs at the base of Tower D by rapping from the anchors at the bottom of a gully on the southwest side of the tower (i.e. anchors for the first pitch of R-5 and/or belay anchors for "Trouble in Paradise")

By Jason Schrack
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fun route. I feel it is a classic.

By Boodge Nomchompski
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Simply an amazing route!

By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 2, 2011

Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526904 by 3581172 Datum WGS 84

By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 3, 2011

I think you mean zone 12 North (south is for the southern hemisphere).

By jefe
Sep 10, 2012

Crassik!
Do it.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome line that cliimbs like a sport climb, protects with gear. Definately the little thin smears under the roof are the crux.