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Rupley Towers
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R3 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Jon following the second pitch of R-3

Description 

This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book). This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire). (1) Climb ramp up and left toward bolts. Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay. (2) Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit. Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts. The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security. Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Five bolts provide MOST of the protection on pitch 1. One bolt helps on pitch 2. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of pitch 1. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is virtually non-existent unless you climb up to the very top of the tower, or have very large gear with you. On top of the tower are several pairs of cold-shuts for rappelling.



Photos of R3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rupley Tower C.  Pitch 1 of R3 starts at the arrow on the bottom right and ends at the chains indicated by the arrow at the middle left of the frame.  P2 works the cracks up and to the right, and ends up top.  The top arrow and waving gentleman mark the location of the 2-bolt belay station for P2.  Rap off the back side of the tower with another 2-bolt setup up top.
BETA PHOTO: Rupley Tower C. Pitch 1 of R3 starts at the arrow...
First pitch of R-3
First pitch of R-3
Looking at the base of the climb.  Six bolts trend to the left at a 45 degree angle to the chains for the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the base of the climb. Six bolts trend...
belaying barefoot from the top of the second pitch <br />photo: Daniel Woolfolk
belaying barefoot from the top of the second pitch...
Throwing the rope.
Throwing the rope.
Comments on R3 Add Comment
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By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004

I do not advise rapping back down the route unless you want to really work yourself getting the rope down.. if you rap off west then you can walk to the top of the first pitch of R-3 and "bop til ya drop" and then rap to the base.. It is exposed so use caution!

By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 26, 2005

.

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009

Great movement on this classic route.. must try if your at Windy Point