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 ADVANCED
Rupley Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asleep at the Wheel T,TR 
Bop Til You Drop T,S 
Border Patrol T,S 
Chewrocka T 
ET Arete S 
Jabba the Butt T 
Millennium Falcon S 
Moving over Stone S 
Obe Wan Kanobee T,S 
Out on Bail S 
R-2 D-2 T 
R1 T 
R3 T 
R4 T 
r5 T,TR 
Team Toads T,S 

R1 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 3,137
Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 14, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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P2 of R1

Description 

On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay. (1) Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge. (2) Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower. You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel. If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope. The second pitch is exactly 30m. Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!

Protection 

Standard Rack. There is one bolt on the first pitch protecting the traverse. The last 30 feet of the route offers scant protection.


Photos of R1 Slideshow Add Photo
John Henry working steel....
John Henry working steel....
R1.
BETA PHOTO: R1.
Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also be used as an alternate first pitch to R-1
Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also b...
Entering the final crux
Entering the final crux
Eric Peterson leading the final pitch
Eric Peterson leading the final pitch
Graham getting started
Graham getting started

Comments on R1 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the first pitch is the .8 the rest is fairly easy .7 rap off west or north
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

my bad guys...i was talking about R-3 Ignore those comments above... Solid .8+..... NOVICE .8 leaders watch that move past the bolt on P1! You will feel gripped so make sure you protect in horizontal crack before reaching for bolt on face!! My advice is if you cannot clip the bolt on that face from the stance then get good pro in crack ( maybe two pieces) and just climb past the bolt cause stopping once you've started out on that face would be an easy way to take a whipper. It's up to you! enjoy!
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009

Awesome classic.. a must do at Mt. Lemmon
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Apr 9, 2010

I love this routed!! one of my first gear leads I'm really excited on it.
By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 2, 2011

Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526927 by 3581197 Datum WGS 84
By Spiro
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, bolt is in odd spot and spins. I would put gear in crack.