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Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
Pointlessness T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

R of Lochluster 


Type:  TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus: WI4- [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,304
Submitted By: Caelan on Nov 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: A really fun climb between Rock, Wood, Ice and Loc...


This is a great moderate route that regularly forms up at Loch Vale Gorge. There is a picture of this route and the right side of Loch Vale Gorge on the main Loch Vale Gorge page. If you're not confident enough to lead this, you could lead Lochluster and then toprope this line from the 2-bolt anchor.


This is the short sheet of vertical ice immediately right of Lochluster and the M5 Handcrack, but left of Rock & Ice.


~4 screws.

Photos of R of Lochluster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading R of Lochluster (2-6-11), bring the stubbi...
Leading R of Lochluster (2-6-11), bring the stubbi...

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By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 30, 2013

This route is in quite different conditions then the pics on this page - it's very fat. You can head out left as implied by this route description, or stick to the right where the curtains (in the pics) have formed a nice, steep pillar. It's getting a little hacked out now though.

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