By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Aug 8, 2010 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a X
The route description in the guidebook is pretty poor. If one does follow the watermarks it will take them through way harder than 5.9 climbing and it will not take them to an overhang on the right side of the wall. If you go to the right of the watermarks after the first 15 feet and follow a roof section and exit in a shallow dihedral, it is definitely 5.9 climbing. My girlfriend and I did the difficult variation of this route that starts left of the watermark on a good ledge, up to some crimpers, then right to the watermark, straight up to a good ledge via dyno, traverse left 8 feet on a very large ledge to an undercling mini-roof section and then up on sidepulls or edges that finishes on a large sloping ledge. Our proposed route name for this variation is "27 Hours of Labor" with an estimated grade of 5.10d.
Start left with your hands on a nice ledge for better value, then move right and straight up to the baby making ledge for a tricky traverse left. From there set up for an awesome crux. I found some nice C3 placements right at the crux. Too bad I had to solo to get there :(
After the crux moves left for more value under the roof to exit right.
Really good 5.9+ head-test piece of climbing.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Sep 27, 2010 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a X
Yeah, good lead Rhoads. I was nervous for you on this one. My palms were even sweaty until you got to that ledge!