The route starts 100+ feet above the road on the left side of the crag. Follow a slab/corner 15ft to a short chimney and traverse right around a large block to the 1st belay. Follow blocky terrain with fun moves mixed in towards the chimney to the right of an obvious arching crack (Cocaine Crack) splitting the smooth face on the left. Head up the chimmey to a large ledge below several short seep cracks the rightmost of which is the easiest. Above here follow slabs and low angle cracks to the top.
Descent: Follow cairns up and to the left before heading into the descent gully.
Gear to 3".
|By Rob C.|
From: Freeport, ME
Aug 22, 2011
Fun, easy to protect. Nice way to get pretty far above the canyon road!
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Almost 90% of the route feels really easy (5.4-5.5), just a few 5.6 moves. Great for a beginning multi-pitch leader.
Aug 19, 2013
For the decent there are now rap rings at the top that take you to the ledge above cocaine crack. Another anchor will take you to a ledge and then into the decent gully (this anchor does not have rings, you will need to bring sling/rap ring). This saves a lot of effort on the walk off.