Quoting Yoda 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob D? |
| Season: | Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | gordwah on Feb 18, 2012 |
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Description This is located at the far right side of Spiney Ridge. This has a steep layback to a power crux at the second bolt. Get a good rest on the rail, then figure out your beta, and go for it to an ok jug and clip. The rest is fairly easy and fun. At the dihedral at the top, stay in it until you get to a large, juggy rail above and left of the anchors and slowly traverse to the rusty cold-shut anchors.
Location This is at the right side of Spiney Ridge. It is the obvious line that finishes on a big, left-facing dihedral.
Protection 3/4 to 1 inch cam in the middle at the runout (8-10 draws).
By slim
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| Probably a good idea to stick clip the first bolt - the layback flake that gets you there and you tug on while clipping is really poor rock quality. The climbing is decent, but a lot of the rock was flaking and chunking off. Incredibly soft for the grade (12b in the last 2 guidebooks). Probably closer to 11b, but my partner thought it impolite to downgrade a route by a full number grade. |
By gordwah
From: colorado
Mar 31, 2012
| I agree. This route is probably close to 11b. If it was filed and cleaned, it would be a 4 or 5 star route. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
May 1, 2012
| Filed? |
By b hof
From: P West, CO
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.11c
| The first half is a choss pile, and the second half is less than par. It doesn't matter how much you "filed" this route, it would still suck! |
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