Quo Vadis  5.9+ A4+

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 22 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade VI Consensus:  5.9+ A4+ [details] FA:  Jacek Czyz solo Oct-Nov 2002 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jacek Czyz on Feb 25, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Quo Vadis topo

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

I prepare to this climb 5 years, since climbed Sunkist in 1997. Did few surrounding routes, also few harder one (Jolly Roger, solo: ZM, Reticent Wall). More then 70% of the terrain was virgin, counting even 5 or 10' when crossing another route. I spent 30 days on the wall, 26 climbing, 4 hauling etc. 23 nights. First time start on Oct 8-th, fixing 4 pitches in 5-6 days. First continuous push 19th-26th to reach Turning Point and fixed to Mammoth Terraces. Next was final push Nov 1-st stopped by big 4-days storm on Nov 6-th (still able to fixed to MT). Real final push from Nov 12, topped during the night of November 20–21. Descent by rappel down the ascent route and Muir Wall to MT on Nov 21-22nd.
For me difficulty of cruxes on QV, JR and RW are similar. An Reticent the most technical and strenuous, on Jolly Roger the most dangerous, on Quo Vadis the most mental seeing last pro far away.

Location 

Start between Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, pass Mammoth Terraces to right, crosses Muir Wall another 2 times, take Direct Finish crossing Muir the last time. Top out is even greater then on Zodiac or Down.

Fallowing link and posters owing to UKA Warszawa, KW Warszawa and Grzegorz Glazek Master Topo:

Quo Vadis and surroundings (clickable PDF file):
www.kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capitan/f/el_capitan__quo_vadis_a>>>

Color topo in English (clickable better resolution PDF file)
www.kw.warszawa.pl/topo/el_capitan/s/quo_vadis_color_topo_in>>>

Zoomable image/topo:
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/elcap/

Zoomable ElCap 2002 Route Poster
mastertopo.pl/plakaty/ncom/pages/06elcap.htm

Protection 

Four pitches are rated at least A4-. The 6-th pitch is the crux, involving about 35' on skyhooks plus a 15' pendulum from 2 equalized 2" hook to a crack climbed with RURPs and copperheads. Everything above weak cam and old chicken rivets from Meditterraneo (if fail 150+' fall potential).
All belay: 2-3 bolts 3/8 SS, only #10 on Turning Point: 1 old Steve' 3/8
33 new belay bolts + 20 existing
14 lead bolts 3/8 + 6 existing
51 rivets most 5/16 machine head SS, 6 Al + 24 existing
98 holes drilled total

Rack similar to JR or Reticent including many small cams and 2 #6; maaaany heads, beaks, hooks and 15 hangers (fit RP). Not too much angles and LA.

Photos of Quo Vadis Slideshow

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Jacek Czyz, Quo Vadis, pitch 5, start to crux A4+...	Autor on final stance, next day after finish Quo V...	Jacek Czyz on Quo Vadis, 4-th belay. Photo: Jacek ...