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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bukatude T 
Buttress Chimney T 
Drain Pipe, The T 
First Pitch T 
Gates of Delirium T 
Golden Oldies T 
Hesitation T 
Hesitation Direct T 
Iron Cross T 
Ishi T 
Last of the Mohicans T 
Moondance T 
New Generation T 
Nirvana T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Race With The Devil T 
Red Rain T 
Sidewinder T 
Stretch, The T 
Sundance T 
Sundance Arete T 
Sundike T 
Valhalla T 
Voodoo Child T 

Quiet Desperation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Accomazzo, Gib Lewis, and Jim Wilson, 1976
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008  with updates from dnaiscool

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Description 

Good mixed climbing. A very thin face crux combined with a unique feature on the second pitch, as well as a pitch of superb liebacking.

Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of the Iron Cross (11a).

Pitch 2: Clip the first bolt of the Iron Cross and then move left to follow the razor thin flake up and left. This flake is wild, a small rock dropped behind it will come out at the bottom of it, down by Red Rain. Although easy, the super thin nature of the flake makes it quite exciting. At the end of the flake climb past two bolts (11d) to the belay ledge.

Pitch 3: Follow the right facing flake to the top (10b). This is yet another of the truely classic pitches on the Sunshine Face.


Location 

Starts at the same place as the Iron Cross.


Protection 

Bolts, thin to 2".

Per dnaiscool:
P1= (2) .5 Camalot, #3-6 stopper, #3 Steelnut, #2 Alien...bolted Belay.

P2= 50 foot runout up wild, razor flake ("No Pro Show") Stand (careful now) one bolt, 4 bolts

The crux here felt really hard for 15 ft., more like .12 something...Just sayin'
and I'd make sure I was really calm before standing to clip that lone bolt at the top
of that razor flake...and unless someone added a bolt low here, the belay bolts on the
top of P1 are all you can clip before heading up that wild flake.

P3= Double set TCU #1-3 (3/8" to 1" pro) up a sweeeeet .10a Lb flake...Belay=loop tree



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