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Quiet Desperation
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
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Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR |
| FA: | Jeff Engel |
| Page Views: | 1,818 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | randy baum on Jun 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
Quiet Desperation climbs a faint arete located thirty feet to the right of Femme Fatale and twenty feet to the left of Stylin/Out of Control/Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars.
Quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. The route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. This move is easier for tall folks. From the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. Getting to the next rest, two huecos, requires lots of tension and precision. This is the physical crux of the route. After resting at the huecos, tricky moves lead to the last bolt, which is a little farther away than most would like. This is the redpoint/mental crux. From the last bolt, it's Red Wing sand jugs to the top. With desperate moves down though and some tenuous cruxing up high, crisp temps are extremely helpful for sending this rig.
Quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. The route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. This move is easier for tall folks. From the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. Getting to the next rest, two huecos, requires lots of tension and precision. This is the physical crux of the route. After resting at the huecos, tricky moves lead to the last bolt, which is a little farther away than most would like. This is the redpoint/mental crux. From the last bolt, it's Red Wing sand jugs to the top. With desperate moves down though and some tenuous cruxing up high, crisp temps are extremely helpful for sending this rig.
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