Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Richard Rossiter, solo, 4 August 2009 |
Page Views: | 2,293 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route ascends the NW arete or ridge of the unknown tower between Tower One and The Dark Tower. Approach from Glacier Gorge as for Tower One and break right once even with the base of the buttress. A clean, right-facing dihedral is obvious on the right and is the crux of the route. The climb over-all is reminiscent of the Keyhole Ridge on Long's Peak, though the dihedral is somewhat more difficult. Above the dihedral a short steep pitch leads to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge crest south to the summit. Pretty good outing, but way remote.
The west side of the tower is another story. Two long dihedrals face each other to create a narrow inset that tops out at the crest of the ridge. The left-facing corner on the right of the inset looks to be worth the long approach. Another similar inset splits the face to the right. Recommendation: bring a rope and a partner.
To escape from the summit, ooze down a slot then traverse a narrow ledge southeast to the notch between the summit and two big "rabit ears" spires. Return to Black Lake as for Tower One.
The west side of the tower is another story. Two long dihedrals face each other to create a narrow inset that tops out at the crest of the ridge. The left-facing corner on the right of the inset looks to be worth the long approach. Another similar inset splits the face to the right. Recommendation: bring a rope and a partner.
To escape from the summit, ooze down a slot then traverse a narrow ledge southeast to the notch between the summit and two big "rabit ears" spires. Return to Black Lake as for Tower One.
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