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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Mar 25, 2010
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

I have 5 draws from wildcountry(Wild Country WildWire Quickdraw), and they are really nice. Bent wiregates with huge mouths that are really easy to clip. Here's my question: is there any advantage/disadvantage to having wiregates on the clip that grabs the hangar? Am i better off buying some cheap draws (like a black diamond oval biner) and swapping these less sophisticated biners for the advanced and fancy ones that would be wasted on a hanger?


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Mar 25, 2010
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Personally I have found that wiregates clip easier, I think that is a granted. As for having them on the hanger side I'm not sure there is a benefit, I prefer them only on the rope side.

This is my reasoning:
The solid metal gates hold up better so I figured putting the solid metal gate to the hanger will be better for wear and tear...

That's just a personal preference though I'm not sure if there is a statistical strength benefit though.


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By Derek W
Mar 25, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron

The only reason I have solid straight gates on the hanger side is so the same biner always goes onto the hanger so if it creates a burr I don't end up with my rope running through there. Solid, straight on the hanger side and a wire on the rope side.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Mar 25, 2010
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

thanks guys, it looks like ill just buy 6 black diamond d shaped biners for cheap, save the nice wire gates for when they can serve a better purpose.


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By JoeValley
Mar 25, 2010

+1 for straight gates on the bolt, bent or wire gates for the rope. In addition to being lighter the wire gates wont open during a hard fall which makes the biner hit the rock face hard. Bent and straight gates open slightly for a split second upon impact. You can simulate this by taking the draw and hitting it in your palm hard. The wire gates wont budge the straight and bentgates make a noise because they open for a nano second. I dont think the rope would ever come out but in theory the biner is weaker for that split second and that second is when its under the most force.

I also suggest getting a key locking biner for the bolt side of the draw. It makes it so much easier to clean your routes after you have climbed them. The pin style draws always seem to get hung-up on the nose of the biner and the bolt at the worst possible time. Key lock biners dont have a nose. So there is nothing to catch on the bolt. Personally I love Petzel Spirits. They are kinda pricey but worth it in the long run. Check out Mad Rock. They are making some nice biners on the cheap.


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By Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
Mar 25, 2010

Wehling wrote:
The only reason I have solid straight gates on the hanger side is so the same biner always goes onto the hanger so if it creates a burr I don't end up with my rope running through there. Solid, straight on the hanger side and a wire on the rope side.


+1

It always scares the hell out of me when people don't keep track of what side goes to the hanger!


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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 25, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Agree totally on the wire clip biner. A bit off the topic here, but how do you feel about the extreme-tiny Nano sized wire gate biners? Do they seem too tiny to grab and clip easily? Are they made for tiny female hands? I can't see the benefit of 'saving weight' at 20 some grams each, as yer' only carrying like 10-15 draws anyway (being mostly a trad climber, I see any sport rack as a total lightweight gear day). I've got some extra wide mouth wire biners, the Simond Jumbo', and they are so easy to clip it's like cheating. Save 'em especially for that long wicked crux reachy clip.


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By Derek W
Mar 25, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
A bit off the topic here, but how do you feel about the extreme-tiny Nano sized wire gate biners? Do they seem too tiny to grab and clip easily? Are they made for tiny female hands? I can't see the benefit of 'saving weight' at 20 some grams each, as yer' only carrying like 10-15 draws anyway (being mostly a trad climber, I see any sport rack as a total lightweight gear day). I've got some extra wide mouth wire biners, the Simond Jumbo', and they are so easy to clip it's like cheating. Save 'em especially for that long wicked crux reachy clip.


I have a half dozen alpine draws with them and I don't notice much difference between them and my Mammut Moses biners. I think they might be a pain on ice with gloves on, but I like them just fine. My opinion though. I don't have many desperate clips for what I'm leading on trad anyway, so yeah.


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By Ty Harlacker
From Albuquerque, NM
Mar 25, 2010
Silverton

If you do sway then get something that isn't a hook-nose. Key-lock's are the way to go. The only reason I use wiregates is because they don't freeze in the cold. Other reason's for using them is less gate chatter and lighter.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 26, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Wehling wrote:
I have a half dozen alpine draws with them and I don't notice much difference between them and my Mammut Moses biners. I think they might be a pain on ice with gloves on, but I like them just fine. My opinion though. I don't have many desperate clips for what I'm leading on trad anyway, so yeah.

'with them' ? meaning the tiny ones or the Jumbos? I too, used the jumbos Simond wires for ice this winter, as they were easy to use with bulky gloves. Not sure yet how I like my small pico, nano,ozone, or whatever the tiny ones are.


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By John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Mar 26, 2010
Chilling on Moby Dick, Cochise Stronghold.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Agree totally on the wire clip biner. A bit off the topic here, but how do you feel about the extreme-tiny Nano sized wire gate biners? Do they seem too tiny to grab and clip easily? Are they made for tiny female hands? I can't see the benefit of 'saving weight' at 20 some grams each, as yer' only carrying like 10-15 draws anyway (being mostly a trad climber, I see any sport rack as a total lightweight gear day). I've got some extra wide mouth wire biners, the Simond Jumbo', and they are so easy to clip it's like cheating. Save 'em especially for that long wicked crux reachy clip.


The carabiners that I use for my trad rack and all of my alpine (trick tripled, slinged, what ever you want to call them) draws are the CAMP Nano 23. I like them and don't have a problem clipping. I have never used them sport climbing though.

I have a few of the Metolius FS Mini's too, so I can easily identify certain pieces of gear, like my "panic pieces." They have a smaller gate opening than the NANO 23, which made me fiddle getting the piece off my harness or gear sling because the loops on my harness are large with plastic tubing over them. Really nice to discover that when in a panic situation trying to get the cam off my harness. :-)

But just like anything, after a few times out, I got used to them and don't even think twice about it now. Between those two, I prefer the NANO 23.


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By Derek W
Mar 26, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
'with them' ? meaning the tiny ones or the Jumbos? I too, used the jumbos Simond wires for ice this winter, as they were easy to use with bulky gloves. Not sure yet how I like my small pico, nano,ozone, or whatever the tiny ones are.


My alpine draws have both Nano 23 (tiny ones) and Mammut Moses biners (appx the same size as neutrinos). I like both on my trad rack and haven't had a problem but probably would prefer the Moses in ice with gloves. I also have yet to have a "desperate clip" with Nanos. Does that answer your question?


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