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Well this was certainly heady!! This totally gets an R. It is run out 5.10 slab climbing and it is great!! I slotted a pretty good nut at the bottom. It starts in a right angling seam. just keep moving...hesitation on this climb will get you "cheese grated!" or worse! I loved it!
Bring nuts and quickdraws.
|By Wes Turner|
Aug 20, 2004
forgot to add that after the angling seam it heads back left and crosses another route.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 23, 2006
FA was EFR and Bob Kerry in 1988. After crossing El-Kabong this climb comes very close to another route Babalooey near a horizontal weakness but heads back right and up. You have to wander around to find the good holds and keep it in the grade. A fall might be bad but you are more likely to get some road rash rather than grated like cheese.
Apr 24, 2006
Does this route rate an "R" ? I don't recall being very scared on it. And there's nothing to hit if you fall.
Jun 3, 2007
I wouldn't give this route and "R". A soft PG-13 perhaps. It's no modern sport route but not too many years ago we would have called this a nancy boy clip up.
It's a fun route.
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 10, 2007
Out of my inability to read a topo I ended up doing another variation where I finished on El Kabong once I joined it from the beginning crack on Quick Draw McGraw. It seemed to stay within the grade of solid 5.10 slab (i.e. only the bottom section of El Kabong before it joins McGraw is solid 5.11) and was pretty fun. On the Kabong finish, there's about a 15 foot run-out between the third-to-last and second-to-last bolt towards the top with some 5.8+/5.9 moves to get in position for the next clip. I just wussed out and went right and protected with a long sling + yellow Alien in the crack on "Sahrrite" and dealt with the horrible rope drag before clipping and back-cleaning.
These routes don't seem to get climbed much, a lot of the footholds were grinding and sloughing off small sections when weighted.
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
I agree with John and Jimbo. This route is pretty sporty but I don't think it deserves and 'R'. I've done it a bunch of times and it definitely gets your attention but there isn't much to hit if you come off. I once broke a hold which is pretty hard to do on this route and took a pretty good ride. I just ran backwards until my feet couldn't keep up and with a gentle push, it was all air. Getting to the top feels as good as church letting out...90% of it is definitely half mental. Quckdraw is on my list of top 10 moderate Mt. Lemmon routes.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
This route is obviously one pitch.
While it is all about the mental challenge of the lead, it can be top roped with the belayer at the summit and the lower bolts clipped as directionals.