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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Jun 17, 2014

Headed up past Sheridan for a race my wife is running this Saturday. We have a day to play somewhere on the way up. Thinking about ten sleep, but we'd need a crag for both my wife and daughter in the 5.7-5.9 range and for me 5.10-easy 5.11. Looking through the MP route guide I am not finding a crag with enough in the lower range to keep us all engaged. Is there a crag to do so?

Thanks


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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Jun 17, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.

The Circus Wall area would be perfect. Nice and shaded and routes from 5.7/8 - 5.12+ all within about 30 seconds.


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By JJNS
Jun 17, 2014

Maybe Home Alone, zero approach for that area.


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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Jun 17, 2014

Are there more routes at these crags than shown in the MP route guide? Circus shows only one 5.8 and one 5.9, and home alone only one 5.8 in the lower range.

we can easily do 8-10 sport pitches in a session, half in the 5.7-9 and half in the 5.10-11. Maybe string together a couple crags?


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By Jason Todd
From Ranchester, WY
Jun 17, 2014
Moss

Just skip Tensleep. There is a lot of climbing in the range you are looking for in Tongue River Canyon outside of Dayton (the trail run goes right through the crags, btw). Piney Creek outside of Story also has a lot of moderates. Pick up Trevor Bowman's guidebook "Rock Climbs of the Eastern Bighorns" (available at the Sports Stop or Backcountry Bikes in Sheridan) for TRC as most of the routes aren't in the MP database.

Good luck to your wife on the run!


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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Jun 17, 2014

Jason Todd wrote:
Just skip Tensleep. There is a lot of climbing in the range you are looking for in Tongue River Canyon outside of Dayton (the trail run goes right through the crags, btw). Piney Creek outside of Story also has a lot of moderates. Pick up Trevor Bowman's guidebook (available at the Sports Stop or Backcountry Bikes in Sheridan) for TRC as most of the routes aren't in the MP database. Good luck to your wife on the run!


Thanks Jason,

She ran the 50K last year (50 mile this year) and I picked up the guidebook and we climbed at steamboat point, but it was HOT down lower.

Really just wanted to try to break up the drive.


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By mike gibson
From Rapid City, SD
Jun 17, 2014

Although Tongue River Canyon is a beautiful place, climbing in June is probably not the best option with the heat, bugs, and poison ivy. However its also possible to get snowed on there until July.

One other suggestion which you are probably already familiar with - Veadauwoo is slightly less out of the way ( 2 or 3 minutes ) compared to Ten Sleep, and it has a multitude of moderates.


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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Jun 17, 2014

Yes, climbed at Vedauwoo since 1982

Hmm, maybe not classic vedauwoo, but might have to spend a day at beehive. My wife and daughter will enjoy moderate face climbing more than cracks.

We will also be climbing up around Sheridan over the weekend. I think we have it figured. Ten sleep will have to wait until I have better circumstances to go and climb harder.

Cheers all.


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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Jun 18, 2014
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.

mountainhick wrote:
Are there more routes at these crags than shown in the MP route guide? Circus shows only one 5.8 and one 5.9, and home alone only one 5.8 in the lower range. we can easily do 8-10 sport pitches in a session, half in the 5.7-9 and half in the 5.10-11. Maybe string together a couple crags?



Yes, many more. MP does not have even a good percentage of the climbs in Ten Sleep. Circus Wall area is really shady and cool during mid day.

I would suggest that you purchase the guidebook. Not only does that have everything, it's also one of the best guide books to have ever been made. In my opinion it's the best. Aaron Huey is a true artist and it's extremely obvious that he put all his heart and sole into the project.

Have fun! Perfect Ten Sleep time!


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By doligo
Jun 18, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

mountainhick wrote:
Are there more routes at these crags than shown in the MP route guide? Circus shows only one 5.8 and one 5.9, and home alone only one 5.8 in the lower range. we can easily do 8-10 sport pitches in a session, half in the 5.7-9 and half in the 5.10-11. Maybe string together a couple crags?


Pooh Corner is next to Home Alone, so you get a couple more 5.6s. Don't hesitate to get on 10a-s in Ten Sleep if you only max at 5.9. Having said that, in my experience most 10- and lower climbs in Ten Sleep are super sharp and unpleasant. But who knows, Pooh Corner and Home Alone sound like popular beginner areas, so the holds may be well worn.


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