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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys 
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Conversions 
Court Jester 
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Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
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Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Quick Silver 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, & Peter Spindloe, 12/2003
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2006
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Chris Parks as seen through the slot, top-down fol...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Quicksilver is a different finish and a completely new pitch above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand. The 5.9+ rating is an Offwidth rating and may seem hard if you are not used to OW climbing.
From the ledge previously above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand, below the death-rap-station, climb up to the right and towards a 4-6" crack though the roof at a right-facing dihedral/overhang. There is a Death block teetering here, but it can be easily avoided. It looks to be about ~ 4' x 3' and is perhaps 8 cubic feet (about 2000lbs). The point is, that it WILL KILL OR MAIM SOMEONE if you knock it off- so don't. Stem up past the flake and to the roof/crack. You can protect the roof at the base with a #3 Camalot or 3.5" piece in a narrow spot (solid gear) and then stem higher and get in a solid 3.5"-4" cam. Protect, then pull up and left to the corner and over the roof (5.9+). During this crux, a #4 Camalot is optional, but the last piece is at your knees anyway. Continue up on easy hand-to-fist cracks protecting with 3" gear, if you saved any (5.5) and up to a ledge and to the top of the ridge, now 20' right of the top of LJW. Belay after slinging a [huge] boulder, or walk the ridge to the "slot" above LJW and belay as per that climb.


Location 

A lone pitch high on the West ridge, approached via Ignominity, Quicksand, or Long John Wall.


Protection 

A standard Rack as for the approach pitches (like Quicksand) + a #4 Camalot and maybe a 3.5 if you brought it. The route would be moderately spicy without these pieces.



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