Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
0. Henderson's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Achille's Heel T 
Bull Dog T,S 
Henderson T 
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 
No Guts, No Glory T 
Noonie Direct T 
Our Mine's I  T 
Pinky and the Brain T 
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 
Two Stoned T 

Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White, Mike C. Robinson 5/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: bradley white on May 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Top of Muir Buttress.

Description 

This would be a two out of five according too mike and that is a good assessment. On the right front of Muir Buttress is a classic outcropping of rock above a few trees. I went too this outcrop by a long and high up traverse from the slab left side because of loose rock possibilities. This caused some rope drag and the traverse is not needed. Belay can be directly below leader on the ground.
After the trees onto the classic outcrop of scary looking giant blocks and climbing where these met the cliff I went up. the upper section that solid enough goes to the several feet of wide crack of the short pillar to its small square top. Very nice feature. Above the stance is the crux face of three side by side perplexing finger cracks too a easy looking finish that actually has poor hand smears while shoes skidding up the lichen crux. Rope drag and the crux being very lichen cover stopped me after several tries and rather than aiding, a pin and small stuff created a belay. Mike did an excellent on sight made it lead. Directly up and many feet higher right is Muir's route belay. We did Muir's second pitch. it goes directly up from here and right onto ledge or move left too the obvious blocks weakness in the Buttress above. From the left side of the ledge at large block directly up from there to gain diagonal ramp. take ramp to its end and go up smooth rock notch. up that to the belay. More like the retreat station belay because the yellow/orange infamous dike pitch is pitch three. I won't do it. put some new anchor rope onto the belay. Guide books have this route's description too the yellow dike complicated. I don't expect too see this route getting any ascents and the retreat slings and the original giant ring pin that is up there has not had any visitors in many years for retreating. The regular first pitch to Muir's that went through large blocks, this section is gone. its doable and moderate or harder.


Location 

Right front of Muir Buttress. Rappel at top of Buttress or continue. now there is a bolt with two old pin and new rope sling for a safer rappel.


Protection 

#1 smallest cam and a regular light rack with #3 cam size have a few in that size range. Tri cams #1/2-3 are useful.



Photos of Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) Slideshow Add Photo
The platform
The platform
Mike Robinson
Mike Robinson
Another ledge
Another ledge
Mike and the trees
Mike and the trees
Mike putting gear after the twelve foot very lichen covered crux.
Mike putting gear after the twelve foot very liche...
Base of the rock outcrop
Base of the rock outcrop
Muir Route is the orange line and Quick Silver is yellow.
BETA PHOTO: Muir Route is the orange line and Quick Silver is ...
Comments on Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 8, 2013

Good outing with Bradley, the first pitch is descent and exciting, mostly 5.6/5.7 climbing with a 5.9ish top out.