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Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) 
Two Stoned 

Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White, Mike C. Robinson 5/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: bradley white on May 8, 2013
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Top of Muir Buttress.

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Description 

This would be a two out of five according too mike and that is a good assessment. On the right front of Muir Buttress is a classic outcropping of rock above a few trees. I went too this outcrop by a long and high up traverse from the slab left side because of loose rock possibilities. This caused some rope drag and the traverse is not needed. Belay can be directly below leader on the ground.
After the trees onto the classic outcrop of scary looking giant blocks for the upper section that are solid. The top of it is a flat top pillar shaped like a large four foot square chimney that is twenty feet long and twelve of it is separated from the cliff. Very nice feature. Above the stance is the crux face of three side by side perplexing finger cracks too a easy looking finish that actually has poor hand smears while shoes skidding up the lichen crux. Rope drag and the crux being very lichen cover stopped me after several tries and rather than aiding, a pin and small stuff created a belay. Mike did an excellent on sight made it lead. Directly up is Muir's route fourth classing up and right too belay cracks or a little higher is a sitting belay station on the edge of the buttress. Muir's second pitch goes directly up from here and right onto ledge or move left too the obvious blocks weakness in the Buttress above. From the left side of the ledge at large block to directly up and diagonally up left directly up through a notch too a ramp and the belay. Here is the retreat station belay besides the yellow/orange infamous dike pitch start and I put on some new anchor rope onto it's belay. Guide books have this route's description too the yellow dike complicated. I brought my lightest ropes but they are very uneven. Led the second pitch on them and the shorter rope didn't make it too the belay (150-60). I got in gear fortunately in the notch and we had too climb together for twenty feet. I don't expect too see this route getting any ascents and the retreat slings and the original giant ring pin that is up there has not had any visitors in many years for retreating.


Location 

Right front of Muir Buttress. Rappel at top of Buttress or continue.


Protection 

#1 smallest cam and a regular light rack with #3 cam size have a few in that size range. Tri cams #1/2-3 are useful.



Photos of Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) Slideshow Add Photo
The platform
The platform
Mike Robinson
Mike Robinson
Another ledge
Another ledge
Mike and the trees
Mike and the trees
Mike putting gear after the twelve foot very lichen covered crux.
Mike putting gear after the twelve foot very liche...
Base of the rock outcrop
Base of the rock outcrop
Muir Route is the orange line and Quick Silver is yellow.
BETA PHOTO: Muir Route is the orange line and Quick Silver is ...
Comments on Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) Add Comment
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By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 8, 2013

Good outing with Bradley, the first pitch is descent and exciting, mostly 5.6/5.7 climbing with a 5.9ish top out.