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Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Quick Death 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown, 1974
Page Views: 2,214
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Starting the Quick Death pitch.

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a single pitch to serve as a variation or to add a second pitch to one of the routes below.

    On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).

    To approach, climb the first pitch as any of the above to a nice ledge 60' up at the base of a big pine tree. From there continue one of 3 ways, both of which seem to be done regularly:

    Option #1: (5.8+, ?**) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then up and left to a left facing corner (crux?), just before clipping a bolt up and to the left (long runner). From there get up and right onto a ledge and into another left-facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver around the flake (5.8) and up either side of it to land on a ledge up and to the right.

    Option #2: (5.9, ?**) Climb up and left from the ledge toward a groove, then hook up and right to a left-facing crack system. Climb the flakes and cracks until you see a bolt (crux?). Clip the bolt up and then get up and right onto a ledge and into another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver around the flake (5.8) and up either side of it to land on a ledge up and to the right.

    Option #3: (5.10a, ***) Climb up and sharply left from the ledge, heading for an arete on the left side of the wall. There is a small left-facing corner and a second crack just left of this arete, which will offer some opportunity to place gear as you climb upward on what is becoming a pinnacle to a ledge (5.9). From the small ledge at the top of a pinnacle, continue climbing up and right on a thin crack before making a crux move (5.10a) to go up and right to the bolt. Clip the bolt and finish as for options #1 and #2.

    Going to the top? Finish as for Black Quacker.

    Protection 

    A standard set of stoppers, cams .5" to 3", small tricams + 1 QD for a single bolt. If finishing as per Black Death or an another route, take spare long slings for tieing off chicken-heads and slinging horns.


    Photos of Quick Death Slideshow Add Photo
    Fun move getting into the crack system.
    Fun move getting into the crack system.
    Sporty unprotected move above the crack.  Sweet fi...
    Sporty unprotected move above the crack. Sweet fi...

    Comments on Quick Death Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2014
    By eMurdock
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    May 22, 2004

    I am not sure about the description above because Quick Death is one pitch of good hand and finger jamming one pitch above Chiboni, Bender Axen etc. Just climb above the belay ledge with the large tree and, when possible, traverse left to a perfect crack. Getting established in the crack may be the crux. Climb the crack for 35 feet or so until it stops at a horizontal. Place gear in the horizontal and climb unprotected face moves to the next ledge. The last bit is a little committing. This is the Quick Death pitch and is unique to Tucson because there are so few splitter cracks.
    By Braxtron
    From: ...
    Feb 27, 2007

    I think Erik is right. I also believe that this pitch can be TR'd if you setup a creative belay from the end of P2 of The Standard Route.
    By Chris Prewitt
    Nov 24, 2008

    This description makes absolutly no sense at all. I never saw a single bolt on this pitch. Also, no mention is made of the OBVIOUS SPLITTER FINGER CRACK!!! Watch out for the big blocks and mind the rope drag before stepping onto the face to gain the crack. Face moves to the crack were difficult, but I felt like the final face moves were the crux.
    Great pitch.
    By John Hayes
    From: Bend, OR
    Jan 4, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I agree 100% with Erik. Quick Death is a single pitch.
    By Jon Ruland
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Oct 21, 2010

    brother braxton is right, you can (and should) toprope this pitch if you set up a creative belay from the top of the standard route pitch 2. this is a must do if you like crack climbing, because as eric says, splitter cracks are so rare in tucson.
    By Alex McIntyre
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 18, 2011

    This route made me realize, once again, that 5.9 is HARD. One of the best 5.9's I've done on Lemmon. Top was scary because I went left instead of right. I highly recommend this pitch!
    By Chris Horton
    From: Tucson AZ
    Oct 16, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I definitely did what is listed as Option #3 and considered it to be the highlight of my 5 pitch Rap Rock saga. Spicy with a few actual crack climbing moves- fists, fingerlocks, fun!
    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 28, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Perhaps an admin can correct or delete this entry?

    Three options are listed and none of them are the actual route. eMurdock, Chris Prewitt, and the others are correct.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 30, 2012

    John, I think if you study it closely for a while, "option #3" is the actual route, but the description is confusing and I think he meant to refer to a crack *right* of the arete rather than left. And, he upgraded it to 10a. Definitely could be cleaned up.

    I imagine Tony got confused by the topo in SQL II. I did the first time I attempted QD and climbed what is actually the standard route thinking it was QD.
    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 30, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    But option #3 refers mentions clipping a bolt. I don't think there are any bolts on Quick Death. I was 6 feet or so left of the bolt in a different crack system. The diagram in STL2 is indeed confusing for the slew of climbs right there.

    I guess it doesn't matter too much as the climbing is all pretty fun.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 30, 2012

    You're right, I guess at some point a description has so many errors that it no longer refers to the "actual route"!

    Since SQL is already misleading when it comes to this route, your point is well-taken that it could really benefit from a clear description here. Would have helped me the first time.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Jul 30, 2012

    The topo in SQII is the same as the one John Steiger used in the original guidebook. I guess I could use some arrows and point out where the route goes and have a better description and a photo so that people have less trouble getting on it. Thanks for the input this all helps.
    By Christian
    From: Casa do Cacete
    Sep 22, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    A #4 would be nice to have at the top of wide crack before the final unprotected moves up and right.

    Unless there's an alternate easier finish, there's a typo in the guidebook as the whole pitch is rated 5.9 but the final traverse right is shown as 9+.

    Sling everything long for the first 5.6 part and figure out some kind of directional at the blocks below the finger crack.

    The pictures Joe posted are useful for finding the thing. From the Pine Tree ledge, trend slightly left up the low-angle right-facing corner w the wide cracks at the top, then hard left at the blocks.
    By Dj telle
    From: Tucson, Arizona
    Jul 2, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    pretty good finger crack. some fun moves