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Sep 18, 2008
Sorry for the following noobish questions, but I am a trad climber and I dont know about all of this sport stuff. However I am going to rumney soon and I am curious about a few things, mostly being quick clips.
So upon research I have figured out what these are, however....
They are for lowering, right?
Can one top rope from these?
Should you clip quick draws to anything?

Any other useful info would be great, or if there are any crazy things I should know about sport climbing.

-Pete
Prizo
Joined Sep 18, 2008
0 points
Sep 19, 2008
pop tart - v3 - pemberton, bc
i think they're usually considered for lowering only. if your TRing it its best to put draws in. kyber
From Portland
Joined Jun 2, 2008
1,695 points
Sep 19, 2008
Stabby
It is considered poor form to TR thru anchors because that wears them out faster than necessary. Other notes on Sport Climbing:

  • Using a bolt hanger as a foothold requires 2 arms-worth of penalty slack yarded out by the belayer.

  • You'll need to learn how to become indignant over a letter grade or two.

  • Bolts are never as close together as they look from the ground. If they look far, watch out.

  • Don't send a noob up to thread the anchors.

  • Accept that the teenage girls setting up next to you will make it look ridiculously easy.

  • Keep your shirt on if body fat is more than 8%

  • Some routes are designed for the 1st bolt to be stick-clipped, usually due to hard moves off the deck. If you are used to bouldering highball problems this is a way to impress.

  • A route with unattended quick-draws is someone's way of saying either:
"Merry Christmas whoever finds these", or
"I am a project-working bad-ass off having my lunch of 1/2 a celery stick and cigarettes."
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Sep 19, 2008
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Mike Lane wrote:
lunch of 1/2 a celery stick and cigarettes."

more like an avocado and bugler
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,729 points
Sep 19, 2008
Yup. Quick clips are for lowering only. TR off your own gear to reduce wear on the anchors.

Other than that, be careful and have fun!
Lanky
From Tired
Joined Jun 20, 2008
407 points
Sep 19, 2008
Thanks a lot.

Pete
Prizo
Joined Sep 18, 2008
0 points
Sep 19, 2008
Ghostride da whip!
If you have to bail, leave a biner, not a quicklink. They rust shut and then make it difficult for the next person to clip into the bolt.

If you must make tick marks (chalk marks on the rock to mark a hold) you should plan on cleaning them off before you go home.

Keep a a knot in the end of your rope, many accidents occur when the leader is being lowered back to the ground because the rope was too short and the belayer did not realize this until the rope slipped away from them.
James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 8, 2004
981 points


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