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Routes in The Matron
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Father Knows Best T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Human Experiment, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in America T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Serpentine Dreams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Soten S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | GB |
| Page Views: | 1,720 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Aug 27, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Climb the left crack in the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral, eventually merging with "Real Men..." and tunneling through the needle's eye.
In March 1978, I was at the Matron with Andrew Shepherd and Bob Forbes. I noticed this line and wanted to try it. While one belayed, the other took photos with my camera. I onsighted the route, finding no in-situ pins, bolts, or slings on the route, nor at its top. Neither Andy nor Bob could follow past the first crux. Some four years later, other climbers claimed the FA and named the route.
During most of my long climbing career, I just went climbing, often leaving no trace, and never bothered to name those experiences or transmit those to guidebook authors. Until a few years ago, I never bothered to publish climbs I did, even after someone else claimed a FA of the route long after I climbed it. Now, MP makes posting routes and comments easy.
In March 1978, I was at the Matron with Andrew Shepherd and Bob Forbes. I noticed this line and wanted to try it. While one belayed, the other took photos with my camera. I onsighted the route, finding no in-situ pins, bolts, or slings on the route, nor at its top. Neither Andy nor Bob could follow past the first crux. Some four years later, other climbers claimed the FA and named the route.
During most of my long climbing career, I just went climbing, often leaving no trace, and never bothered to name those experiences or transmit those to guidebook authors. Until a few years ago, I never bothered to publish climbs I did, even after someone else claimed a FA of the route long after I climbed it. Now, MP makes posting routes and comments easy.
Location
It shares opening and closing sections with "Real Men...." This is to the left of the standard North Face route.
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