|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Andy Petefish, et. al.|
|Submitted By:||Matthew Seymour on Oct 28, 2007|
|Comments on Questions and Answers||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jesse Bernier
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|This is by far one of the best routes in Unaweep Canyon. A must do to realize that Unaweep isn't complete choss. Long, sustained, and exposed on great rock. After today you can rap safely down the gully with one 60 meter rope. There are now good slings on the giant chock that you used to pass on the second rappel. 3 60 meter raps.|
By John Peterson
Apr 26, 2009
|The first pitch is the best 5.8 I've done in Unaweep. The anchor at the top is good and it's easy to get back down. A 70 reaches the ground from the ledge. We used some bigger camalots (a #4 and #5) - not required but makes it easier to protect. An excellent pitch for a 5.8 leader.|
By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Dec 6, 2010
|There is a slightly harder variation to the first pitch. Climb original line for 20 feet than step right on the sloping ledge and climb up the slightly broken rock to a bolt and ledge. Then Climb the right dihedral and come up on the right side of the belay ledge.|
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Mar 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Very sustained and pumpy.
First pitch is a solid 5.8+.
Second is the crux, approaching 10b/c, my second favorite pitch of the climb.
Third is the money pitch 10 a/b.
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Oct 17, 2013
|Just a note: After pitch one if you take the left way up the chimney, make sure to rap at the next belay (slings on a big boulder with quicklink, 2 60m ropes.) If you choose to summit, be aware that there is terrible choss on the final pitch. In the book this route is called "slip sliding away" and I'm pretty sure I now know why it was not posted on MP.|
By clay meier
Sep 14, 2014
|Call me a wuss, but I would rate the 2nd pitch as solid 5.11. Also, for first timers, bring 2 ropes for getting down. We didn't and we had to do a bunch of shenanigans to get down.|
By Johann Aberger
Nov 8, 2014
One of the best in Unaweep - kudos to the FA team for their vision on P. 2.
A few thoughts:
Pitch 2 - this pitch would be a sandbag at 10d, but in keeping with the old-school nature of ratings in Unaweep, it fits. Gear is PG-13, small but adequate. The crack below the roof is not a "hand crack," unless you have tiny hands (purple-green Camalots). It is about 180 feet to an alcove belay that sets you up for a 160 foot 3rd pitch.
Pitch 3 - 10c. Outstanding.
We rapped Doppleganger with 2 60 meter ropes and no shenanigans.