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Questions about summer trip on the east side/ tahoe
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By Christian C
From Arcata, CA
May 4, 2014

hey all,
starting june first i'll be doing a 2 month road trip from humboldt, down to lone pine and back. planning to hit lover's leap, phantom spires, some stuff in mammoth, pine creek, cardinal pinnacle, whitney portal, and the high sierra. a few questions:

best free/ primitive camping in the tahoe area? preferably close to lovers leap
best bouldering in south lake?

best sport climbing (5.10-5.13), trad climbing (up to 5.11+) and best bouldering (up to v8/9) in mammoth? and is there any primitive camping close by?
best multipitch in mammoth?

conditions in the summer time in pine creek? and any other good places in the bishop/ lone pine area for the summer?
best multipitch/ alpine in the sierra that is 5.10 or under? so far i'm planning E. buttress of whitney, and mithril dihedral

some beta on somewhere for a shower( so far i only know of the laundromat in bishop), some good, cheap restaurants, sweet little hot springs, and any other must see/ must do/ must go routes, places, or any other tips would be much appreciated!
I already have the guidebooks for mammoth, bishop, and the supertopo for the high sierra, and i've combed through every bit of info on this site
just looking for some personal opinions
wooo! getting stoked for this trip, maybe i'll see some of y'all out there.


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By Willie Wilson
From America
May 4, 2014

I think you can camp for free at or near Phantom Spires

There is a lot of great bouldering around Mammoth pick up Mammoth Bouldering by Charlie Barrett.
Look into the bouldering are Dead Man's Summit, not much in the v8-9 range but primitive camping there.

Personally I would plan some time for Tuolumne Meadows since you will be in that area and it's the best summer destination in California. Primitive camping close to Tuolumne PM me if you want the details. Hit up Mono Cone in Lee Vining for a cheap awesome meal.

Bishop and will be hot.

All the shower info for the East side you would need can be found here www.climber.org/data/showers.html


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By Jordan Collins
From South Lake Tahoe
May 4, 2014

Mammoth. absolutely pick up that guidebook by charlie barrett its rad. I think the best bouldering is at WAY LAKE just bring enough pads.. best cold temps as well. You can camp at dead man summit or the bachar boulders.
Tahoe. You can totally camp off of service roads for free in tahoe. right by lovers leap, theeirs a ton of them take your pick and drive a little ways out. for bouldering, Sugar Pine area is nice, really nice. but long approach. bliss is a super short approach and has awesome lines and a few classics around v7-9.!! have fun dude!


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 6, 2014
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Best Sport, IMHO... Clark Canyon. Good free camping all along the road in.

Joes Garage and Aera 13 are right close by also.

Rock Creek... good bouldering,+ Climbs go into the shade after about 2 pm.


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By trying hard
From Sierra East Side
May 6, 2014
getting ready to try cowabunga!

Camping at phantom spires is free. There is some free camping up behind the cabins near lovers leap. Its also very cheap to stay at lovers leap campground.

Best sport climbing is spread out pretty good. Concentrated in the Owens River Gorge but that will be maybe too hot at that time.

I recommend you spend the majority of your time sport climbing at the Tioga cliff on the 120 before you get in the park and Pine creek canyon for the grades you seek. Both amazing granite areas. Tioga is mainly fixed draws on everything. Pine creek is just amazing.

Bouldering at the time you will be arriving i would recommend rock creek - way lake - hartley springs - and tuolumne meadows bouldering. There is of course great bouldering in bishop but that will be a little warm for the time you are visiting. Night sessions are always a good memory and fun though. The best multi pitch climbing around mammoth lies in tuolumne meadows. West Face of Cardinal Pinnacle is terrific. Third pillar of dana, speed of life, blues riff, etc.. I should also mention there is great trad multi in pine creek as well, rites of spring - mountain project has all the beta. If you are looking to diversify hair raiser buttress provides a bolted 400', 3 pitches of 5.9 near mammoth as well.

You can always jump in one of the many lakes or rivers around to shower. I would suggest not showering in the stinky hot spring water and you may also find some unhappy locals if your using soap. You can shower for the entry fee at keoughs hot springs in bishop. You can also probably get a pass for snow creek gym in mammoth for showers. You can also shower at the strawberry lodge at the leap for a small price.

check out mobile mart at the base of tioga pass on thursdays for live music and lots of local climbers turn out for this event every week. There is a lot of free camping around mammoth, bishop, tioga pass as long as your not in the park. Its easy to just go with the flow on this one.

I would check out a sandwich at mahogany smoked meats in bishop, eagles landing in june lake for a nice yet inexpensive dining experience, mammoth tavern is a fun stop in mammoth. Get your gas in tahoe and bishop. its more expensive at tioga pass and mammoth.


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By Christian C
From Arcata, CA
May 8, 2014

thanks for all the beta! looking forward to heading out to all these new places.
maybe i'll see you guys out there!


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