This climb may be completely new or a large variation. Either way it offers excellent varied climbing on consistent grades.
Pitch one: 5.11+, 60m:
Start at the giant obvious dihedral. Same start as "Tostadas Comquesta." Get in the angling right corner. From under the mini roof, layback it left (not right, which is "tostadas") follow the dihedral right until it gets to a decent ledge. At this ledge punch it left to the 12ft overhung face on dark orange rock. Climb out left on a jug and mantle to find a spanking new 3 bolt anchor. (FULL ROPE LENGTH PITCH is bitchinnn! or break it up under the small roof)
Pitch 2: 5.12 PG13/R? 200ft:
Slab it up directly up the thin face. Tiny cam/tricam protects the first pocket. Swag the rusty pin out right. Don't fall on this! Please...
Now tread left to the small angle jutting out of the wall. It's pretty run out and VERY thin. If you punt and the pin holds you may swing 30ft off the huge dihedral, if it doesn't you may decapitate your belayer... yeah...
Climb to the ledge, protect it, and climb to the giant overhang past a shiny new hand drilled bolt. Just for you.
At the overhang traverse right until your under the huge corner.
(again full rope pitch or break it up at the overhang
Pitch 3: 5.12 or 12+ or harder?, 70ft:
This may be a pitch called Questober? Climb up the techie overhung face into the overhung dihedral. There is a less-than-fingers crack up the back unless you are 9 years old. It's all trixie hobbit and such to stem up it, match a pinch on the left and jump left into another overhung less-than-fingers dihedral WAT? YEAH! I put a piton in this dihedral for you fools and for my piece of mind. You can make a belay or climb the chicken heads to a tree.
If you just climbed this, feel free to tie the rope on your back and free solo the bomber chicken heads. It's pretty solid and has a lot of ledges if you dun goof. Or rope up....
And confirm the grade?
A FEW NOTES:
-Like I said the last pitch may be Questober 11+? Felt way harder than any 11+ I've climbed. But we were dehydrated, starved, tired, and it was raining. blah blah.. Any input on this?
-What I envisioned on the last pitch was to climb the big overhang directly over pitch 2. I rapped to check it out, and it's hard, like real hard. And would need a lot of bolts because its straight up 5.14 for 20 feet. I don't got time for that!
Someone should bolt it, it would be way sick to have a 5.14 on little O'l Questa. If no one is psyched I'll be back....!
-bolts were put in on lead, free climbing or on solo aid. Hand drill.
Start on Tostadas Comquesta. On the large, err huge right facing overhung dihedral in the middle of the cliff.
Double rack from .4 to 3. Small RPs and less-than-finger cams.
First pitch has bolts
Second pitch has one bolt on the climb
Build some anchors, get creative.
I climbed it with a 60m on the mega pitches 70m would be nice.
|Comments on Questionable Timing