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Questionable Belay Technique

Original Post
Andrew Caraballo · · Milwaukie, OR · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 530

Me and my friends from Eastern Washington fit the stereo typical sport climber build (we were the people without helmets on a busy day in Vantage). Through our various trips my friend Lacey managed to catch some pretty terrible forms of belaying on photo "meh it's grigri it'll catcht", which turned out pretty funny, some were posed and some caught in the action. Enjoy! (feel free to add some of your own)

Matt using the belay hamock

Deep thought belay

Beer Belay

Depressed Belay

Don't really know whats going on

Dual Belay

Beer belay #2 who is that guy?

Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810

Oh man that's nothing, i was at shelf road on friday and there was these two russian guys and while one guy was leading his belayer had his back to him, eyes closed and neither of his hands were on the break rope and he was using an ATC for the record. good thing the climber was good and vocal before falling.

Caleb Padgett · · Rockville, utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 85

at least the last guy is anchored into his chalk bag loop....

is the dual belay guy loading a bowl?????? busted

JML · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 30

And then winner is...........

John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195
David Aguasca! · · New York · Joined May 2008 · Points: 550

To JML:

WHAT?????

Trevor · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 180

the "dual belay" allegedly loading a bowl...has the gri gri threaded backwards.

JML · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 30

David, that was an actual photo taken at JTree a couple of years ago(not by me). The photo was not staged...maybe you could translate what you see there?

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

An unattentive belayer is one I will never climb with again. About 6-7 years ago a friend's wife was belaying while sitting down and the leader pulled off a huge block. Unfortunately she was not in a position to move quickly and was killed instantly.

Belaying is not to be taken lightly even if someone is top roping.

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

Caleb...it isn't a "chalk bag loop", it's for a haul line.

Andrew Caraballo · · Milwaukie, OR · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 530
Joe Huggins wrote:Caleb...it isn't a "chalk bag loop", it's for a haul line.
You have to anchor your self in order stay out of the creek when someone falls. Pretty interesting task of belay and getting to the rock.

getting squeezed by catching a lead fall

Melissa getting her pre climb water crossing warm-up
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Ah, the flip-flop anchor along with the accompanying hippie tie-in

Chris M · · Hailey, ID · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 945

This belay will surely be adopted in the next edition of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills

Latest and Greatest in Ice Climbing Technique

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

If you ever see this guy, don't EVER let him belay YOU.

Lives hang in the balance, people!!

Sport Boy (Photo by Peacock)

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

how does one even begin to ask a question on those??

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

just wondering...
has anyone's belayer been out of sight around a corner or under a roof and then take a fall, and then had the belayer think you were simply taking up rope to clip at approx. 9.81 m/s^2?

Lauren Fallsoffrocks · · A beach with climbing · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 260

My hubby actually does yank the rope to clip at a about the same speed as a fall! If I'm belaying under an overhang or he is otherwise out of sight I have to yell at him to let me know when he's clipping! An attentive belay is a must. No laying down with legs crossed and casually holding the rope most of the time because you use a gri or similar device!

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

Umm, You forgot this one

Shayne Durfee leading S direct.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
johnL wrote: Yep. I've done it and it's happened to me. You fall a little further then you'd planned but otherwise it's no biggie.
haha once I fell 20 or so feet when the piece was at my head. that was a surprise.
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
tenesmus wrote:Umm, You forgot this one
Has to be one of the best climbing pics I've ever seen. Freak'n hilarious. I guess the only question is, would you prefer to be in the foreground or the background???
BA
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Buff Johnson wrote:how does one even begin to ask a question on those??
I love the 'rock lobster' deal. Were these from climbing day at a Burning Man festival?
I did once 'lead' a 165ft.rope length from the parking lot into a bar and anchored in on a stool. Then brought my partner in through the door on a tight rope for the crux move onto a seat. Wish I had a photo to share of it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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