Questionable Belay Technique
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Me and my friends from Eastern Washington fit the stereo typical sport climber build (we were the people without helmets on a busy day in Vantage). Through our various trips my friend Lacey managed to catch some pretty terrible forms of belaying on photo "meh it's grigri it'll catcht", which turned out pretty funny, some were posed and some caught in the action. Enjoy! (feel free to add some of your own) |
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Oh man that's nothing, i was at shelf road on friday and there was these two russian guys and while one guy was leading his belayer had his back to him, eyes closed and neither of his hands were on the break rope and he was using an ATC for the record. good thing the climber was good and vocal before falling. |
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at least the last guy is anchored into his chalk bag loop.... |
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To JML: |
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the "dual belay" allegedly loading a bowl...has the gri gri threaded backwards. |
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David, that was an actual photo taken at JTree a couple of years ago(not by me). The photo was not staged...maybe you could translate what you see there? |
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An unattentive belayer is one I will never climb with again. About 6-7 years ago a friend's wife was belaying while sitting down and the leader pulled off a huge block. Unfortunately she was not in a position to move quickly and was killed instantly. |
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Caleb...it isn't a "chalk bag loop", it's for a haul line. |
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Joe Huggins wrote:Caleb...it isn't a "chalk bag loop", it's for a haul line.You have to anchor your self in order stay out of the creek when someone falls. Pretty interesting task of belay and getting to the rock. getting squeezed by catching a lead fall Melissa getting her pre climb water crossing warm-up |
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Ah, the flip-flop anchor along with the accompanying hippie tie-in |
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This belay will surely be adopted in the next edition of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills |
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If you ever see this guy, don't EVER let him belay YOU. |
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how does one even begin to ask a question on those?? |
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just wondering... |
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My hubby actually does yank the rope to clip at a about the same speed as a fall! If I'm belaying under an overhang or he is otherwise out of sight I have to yell at him to let me know when he's clipping! An attentive belay is a must. No laying down with legs crossed and casually holding the rope most of the time because you use a gri or similar device! |
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Umm, You forgot this one |
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johnL wrote: Yep. I've done it and it's happened to me. You fall a little further then you'd planned but otherwise it's no biggie.haha once I fell 20 or so feet when the piece was at my head. that was a surprise. |
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tenesmus wrote:Umm, You forgot this oneHas to be one of the best climbing pics I've ever seen. Freak'n hilarious. I guess the only question is, would you prefer to be in the foreground or the background??? BA |
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Buff Johnson wrote:how does one even begin to ask a question on those??I love the 'rock lobster' deal. Were these from climbing day at a Burning Man festival? I did once 'lead' a 165ft.rope length from the parking lot into a bar and anchored in on a stool. Then brought my partner in through the door on a tight rope for the crux move onto a seat. Wish I had a photo to share of it. |