Question of Balance 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | phil broscovak on Oct 3, 2003 |
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Two views of Question of Balance taken by Greg Phi...
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Description Question of Balance is a very appropriately named route that goes up the obvious rightward angling crack system on the beautiful smooth slab to the right of the prominent Air Conditioner corner. This is a fantastic climb offering steep (thankfully just under vertical) relentlessly thin crack and face climbing from start to finish. Question of Balance is most often top roped but it's real greatness is as a test piece trad lead. The route gets harder each move that you work up. The gear while sometimes needing to be worked is good all the way up to the runout crux moves which are safe but your feet will be above your last gear while you are pulling the last hardest moves. There are two variations to the crux final moves The left variation is slightly easier but both will keep you on your toes. The climb ends at a narrow ledge with chains that can be backed up with trad gear if desired.
Protection For the most part small to mid sized wired nuts, TCUs, and RPs. Chains on the ledge at top are accessible by tricky 3rd class to set up top rope.
A view from the side of Q of B taken by Greg Phill...
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"A Question of Balance" by The Moody Blues.
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| Comments on Question of Balance |
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By aaron voreis
Mar 11, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| Along with double cams from #0.1 Camalot (black Alien) to #0.4 (yellow Camalot), a red Alien and a few small to med nuts you will find a #4 Friend or #3.5 Camalot to be surprisingly useful.
cheers, aaron |
By Kirk Woerner
Sep 27, 2004
| When doing the left variation (5.10+), I recall a green Alien fitting in a little slot right in the middle and up high. This gives some peace of mind for the final moves. |
By Stephanovich
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2007
rating: 5.11
| Philo- lookin' good in them there photos of ya'- very balanced. As for myself I remember messing up the sequence @ the crux and having to lung for the ledge right below the anchors. call me jumpy, if you will- it was a favorite OS of mine, as well as "needs a bolt", keep crankin' partner. |
By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b PG13
| Classic route! Thin, Balancy, some tricky pro, and a tad runout at the crux. A route that definitely tested my mental game :) |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 5, 2007
| I was once interrogated by the Crested Butte sheriff while doing this climb. No problem for me as I was belaying. Chuck Grossman had to answer questons while grappling with the crux. He finished up with us and Chuck fired the rest of the climb. Classic. As it turns out someone had broken into the outdoor shop in the Butte and had made off with all the rock gear. The sheriff was at Taylor Canyon for three days straight trying to find the culprit. |
By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.11b PG13
| I just re-did this and I take back my run-out comment. Solid gear throughout. |
By AdamFerro
Mar 26, 2009
| FFA: (uncle) Tom Pulaski, mid 70's |
By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Feb 23, 2011
| I've always found this hard to protect, but I spend most of my time on sport routes. Doing the crux direct adds about a full grade to the climb. Easy out - 5.10d, direct - 5.11c'ish... Sustained 5.9 - 5.10b climbing to the crux. |
By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Jul 18, 2011
| Sporty finish. Super fun. |
By Slade
From: Gunnison
Apr 5, 2013
| Great climb!! The direct finish is bouldery but good. |
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