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5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Question Wall
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Is God Punishing Me? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Question Crack Center S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Question Crack Right S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Question Unanswered S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Shiny New Question S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shoot the Question S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Who'd a Thought? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Why You Gotta Be a Bitch? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Will Push Come To Shove S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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You Rang? S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 753 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Phil Lauffen on Jul 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This route starts off the center of the flake(3 bolts to surmount the flake) and continues up the face past 4 or 5 more bolts before joining the left overhanging crack. This face portion constitutes the technical crux, while the overhanging crack requires basic jamming technique, endurance, and pain tolerance. This route gets a 12a in the latest edition of the TS guide, but I don't think its that hard.
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