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Questa Flatiron Original Route T 
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Questa Flatiron Original Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Hagen Telg. May 2013
Page Views: 270
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 9, 2013

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Amazing chickenheads may lead to excessive smiling

Description 

A fun and well-protected two pitch route was the first route we climbed up the formation. The first pitch involves a minimal amount of face climbing to some pretty vegetated cracks to a nice belay stance below the clean upper face. The second pitch climbs the face with some friction climbing to a wide crack/trough eventually ending on an awesome exposed blunt arete finishing on fantastic chickenheads to the summit.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Start up to the right in the trough to a good stance at a small dike and clip a bolt. Pull onto the face and make face moves past a small bush or two and another bolt before reaching a good vertical crack. Climb the crack to a small roof. Pull the roof to good belay stance at a small tree in a bit of a chimney. Sling the tree and get nice .75 camalot placements near each foot for the belay or load up the nice crack to your right with #1 and #2 camalots for a bomber but less comfy stance. 70 feet.

Pitch 2 (5.10-): Follow the nice crack/flake out right (good gear) to a bolt. Move right on a tiny ledge for your feet until its possible to pull up and onto a sloping ledge and a good stance to clip another bolt. Move up right clipping a couple more bolts of friction face climbing (crux) to reach the bottom of the wide crack/trough. Use a #4 camalot to protect the climbing in this wide crack and eventually reach the right edge of the flatiron and a cool, round hueco. This is where No Questa About Its third pitch moves right to exit the arete. Move up, clip a bolt and make airy moves on the arete before reaching some amazing chickenheads to the summit. 140 feet.

Location 

Follow the approach directions for the Questa Flatiron.

Protection 

50m or 60m rope, nuts, .3 camalot to #4 camalot. Doubles in the .75 to #2 to allow for the belay anchor atop P1. 6-8 quickdraws/slings.

Descent 

One 50 rappel off the summit to the gully behind the flatiron and then scramble/hike back down to the talus approach slope.


Photos of Questa Flatiron Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up P1. The route starts up the trough to t...
Looking up P1. The route starts up the trough to t...

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