A fun and well-protected two pitch route was the first route we climbed up the formation. The first pitch involves a minimal amount of face climbing to some pretty vegetated cracks to a nice belay stance below the clean upper face. The second pitch climbs the face with some friction climbing to a wide crack/trough eventually ending on an awesome exposed blunt arete finishing on fantastic chickenheads to the summit.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Start up to the right in the trough to a good stance at a small dike and clip a bolt. Pull onto the face and make face moves past a small bush or two and another bolt before reaching a good vertical crack. Climb the crack to a small roof. Pull the roof to good belay stance at a small tree in a bit of a chimney. Sling the tree and get nice .75 camalot placements near each foot for the belay or load up the nice crack to your right with #1 and #2 camalots for a bomber but less comfy stance. 70 feet.
Pitch 2 (5.10-): Follow the nice crack/flake out right (good gear) to a bolt. Move right on a tiny ledge for your feet until it’s possible to pull up and onto a sloping ledge and a good stance to clip another bolt. Move up right clipping a couple more bolts of friction face climbing (crux) to reach the bottom of the wide crack/trough. Use a #4 camalot to protect the climbing in this wide crack and eventually reach the right edge of the flatiron and a cool, round hueco. This is where No Questa About It
‘s third pitch moves right to exit the arete. Move up, clip a bolt and make airy moves on the arete before reaching some amazing chickenheads to the summit. 140 feet.
50m or 60m rope, nuts, .3 camalot to #4 camalot. Doubles in the .75 to #2 to allow for the belay anchor atop P1. 6-8 quickdraws/slings.
One 50’ rappel off the summit to the gully behind the flatiron and then scramble/hike back down to the talus approach slope.
Looking up P1. The route starts up the trough to t...