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Cocaine Gully
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Quest to Fire 
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Quest to Fire 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: ---- on Mar 9, 2010
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Description 

Start up a ramp just left of the bolt line. Blindly reach right around a bulge to clip the first bolt. Then make your way through several more feet of slab. As the wall turns vertical, fish hook a right hand mono pocket and clip the third draw. At this point the route turns slightly overhanging as you are forced to make balancy lieback moves. The occasional pocket provides areas to shake out before you encounter the final crux bulge.

At the crux bulge establish yourself on bad underclings and do your best to find something to grab amidst the chalkless lichen covered rock. There is a sinker two finger pocket somewhere up there. Good luck finding it. You will need to call upon your power, technical footwork and craftiness to avoid whipping here. Aim for a clipping jug several feet up and left of the anchors.

This route is worth doing and the rock is decent. The difficulty is comparable to Crack Babies, though much more technically demanding.


Location 

This route is between bloodshot and crack babies on the east facing wall of the cocaine gully (Two routes left of the nasty looking bolted crack)


Protection 

7 bolts plus anchors. A new bolt has made this route much safer than its previous state.



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By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Great write-up. This thing feels really hard! Definitely felt harder than crack babies or liquid jade, or heinous cling.