|Eagle Lake Cliff
Crux pulling through a bulge on thin finger tips with thin feet. Easy to toprope after climbing Space Truckin'.
Starts left of Space Truckin' and finishes same as Space Truckin'.
Cams: 2 each .4-1.25", 1 each 1.5-3"
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Sep 4, 2011
Before and after the bulge felt like the crux to our party. Pulling into the stance before the roof is surprisingly difficult and I used several small C3s to get my first pieces.
The rest of the route pros up great with small to mid-size pieces up to #1 or #2 Camalots. The onsight crux was hanging onto slightly rattly finger and thin hand jams after the roof.
Current to this description, a slung block rap anchor is located at the meeting point of the Quest for Glory and Space Truckin' cracks. If you ignore this invitation you can continue on with 3.5" - 4" pro into a 5.8 extension to the two climbs ending at a bolted rap anchor. Be cautious if you only have a 60m rope and view the Space Truckin' route comments to get the full dish on rapping/TRing these routes.
Sep 16, 2013
The crux for me was definitely getting up to and over the roof. I had to pull some awkward offwidth/stem moves to get to the ledge under the roof, then some powerful lieback/jam moves to get over. Once over the roof, though, this route it fantastic. Great steep jamming to a double crack to a dihedral. One of my favorites at the crag, great for running laps on.