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Start up the jagged arete until possible to reach far out left and onto the wall. Now the technical climbing begins. Take a wandering line up the wall, first left then right.
Never desperate, but technical moves keep you honest all the way up, with good but spaced protection.
Middle of the left wall
BETA PHOTO: Queersville Topo
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Not a pushover. Seems harder now than 30 years ago.
From: Sheffield, SY
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A great climb. Reachy and heady. While the gear is good, it's not abundant, and you're constantly having to make long, committing moves above your placements. Definitely height dependent. Easily 5.10 if you're short. Enjoy!