|The Cleo Amphitheater
This one is easy, but it is a whole lot of fun. It is about as perfect for leading as climbs get at Devil's Lake and swallows gear so it is good for the begginner leader. Climb the left facing corner to the right of King's Throne. There are two corners there so climb the one on the right. It is a very vertical crack and ends to the right of the tall rock spike atop the climb.
Mar 18, 2002
An outstanding climb. Too much fun, it's like an amusement park ride. Perfect crack, perfect feet, perfect pro.Makes you want to quit your job and get really GOOD at crack climbing.
May 23, 2002
Try sticking exclusively to the crack on the right ie. don't use the wall on the left. I thought it made for a nice variation.
Aug 9, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Awesome route. After completely messing up the simple approach on Friday (8/5/05), we found the Queen's Throne just begging to be climbed. It is interesting to note that the main crack begins at about 1" and widens to about 4" at the top, thus making use of all sizes of bigger gear. There are lots of ledges (as previously noted), but you still need to focus somewhat on staying balanced. I began with a .75 Camalot and used almost every bigger one in my rack. 1 #1, 2 #2's, 1 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #5. I also placed one big hex. Small nuts/cams aren't really needed if you have the bigger cams. Ok, I threaded it up, but had a blast doing so. The #5 I placed 3 times (I pulled it the first 2 because the wide crack at the top looked like it needed it). I anchored a TR (you'll want to do it more than once!) with a long sling around the pillar and a nut and cam in nearby cracks.
This climb is way fun and highly recommended. There is shade most of the way up which is quite appreciated.
|By Paul Huebner|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
Great lead for beginners. Also, like the comment above from Anonymous, stick (feet & hands) only to the crack and avoid the wall to your left and the climb definitely becomes a 5.5 jam crack. If you do this, like Birch Tree Crack (5.8), the climb is excellent preparation for the Durrance Crack (P2) of the Durrance route on Devil's Tower.
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Aug 18, 2008
This climb is great. Whether you can climb hard or easy, it is a fun crack climb and a great lead.
From: rapid city, SD
May 4, 2009
i did the variation. fun route
Jul 23, 2011
Very cool climb! Wife and I were able to climb successfully without prior crack climbing skills knowledge! Recommend to everyone!