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Queenfolia 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,092
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Jun 8, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: At the crux of Queenfolia. Photo by Geir H.

Description 

Located about 25 feet left of Brown Derby this route begins on face climbing up then right to the base of a nice corner hand crack. Climb this hand crack to the top of a pillar. From this point straight up is Kingfolia (5.10+). Climb up and right out a flake on great holds then exit on a thin hands crack.


Protection 

1 x set TCUs
1 x .5, .75, #1 Camalots
2 x #2, #3 Camalots
Half set stoppers
Long slings can help reduce rope drag



Photos of Queenfolia Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Hawthorne leading through the overhanging finish of Queenfolia
Mark Hawthorne leading through the overhanging fin...
MArk Hawthorne placing gear at the start of the crux
MArk Hawthorne placing gear at the start of the cr...
....fall at the crux plus long runner= end up here, hopefully just grazing the ledge.
....fall at the crux plus long runner= end up here...
detail view of the start, way down low on queenfolia
detail view of the start, way down low on queenfol...
the start of queenfolia, which heads right to the chalked flake...steeper than it looks!
the start of queenfolia, which heads right to the ...
black metolious, purple metolious, then go....
black metolious, purple metolious, then go....
there is a fall to be found on queenfolia if you senselessly use a long runner on your #3, and then mess up like i'm doing here....
there is a fall to be found on queenfolia if you s...
the cruise to the top
the cruise to the top
Comments on Queenfolia Add Comment
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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2006

Good point Greg. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly into the flake about halfway across. Additionally, it is fairly steep climbing across the flake, so place good gear and climb quickly when possible.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
May 28, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

The stress factor is only there cause of that pillar. Still, the climbing eases way up once you get vertical again.

By Paul Davidson
May 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

One of my favorite climbs at the Forks.

It looked so intimidating on the first ascent but turned out to be a jug haul on steep ground.

Can be pumpy if you place the pro to keep yourself off the ledge.
As we used to say, "Never pass up the chance to pump a chump."

We were definitely of the chump school of thought.

BTW - my notes indicate the first was moi y Mike Lawson but my memory remembers being with Jim. Where's my aricept.

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 2, 2009

Do you mean a #3 TCU Will? That's what I jammed into that flake today. I've seen people lead this without placing gear in the crux, but I can never make myself run it out. Hitting that ledge would hurt.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 10, 2010

Tavis,

There is a #3 Camalot placement about halfway out the flake. Kind of tucked up in there if I recall. I could never bring myself to run it out across that flake either. I did feel like a pumped chump after leading it!