BETA PHOTO: Pointed Dome on the left and Queen Victoria on the...
Queen Vic is an attractive, pointy tower sitting on the ridgeline north of Schnebly Hill Road. This is a wonderful, mostly easy, outing that gets you to a nice summit overlooking Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.
The approach is done from a parking spot on the left 1.9 miles up Schnebly Hill Road. There is a picnic table at the right spot.
Hike downhill past the picnic table to a good trail, take the trail left (west) and hike down to a big wash on the right. Hike and scramble up this wash (sometimes in and out of the wash, but basically in) directly up to the ridge above with Queen Victoria and Pointed Dome. Follow your nose up to the ridge and the east side of Queen Vic and access to the routes.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Victoria:
This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one. P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack i...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Seems like the picnic table mentioned may be gone if the parking area described in here is the first one that is a turn-around (with an island) 1.9 miles from where the dirt road begins. That said, we parked at the pulloff before the turn-around where there is a cave-like waterfall visible from the road. From here, hike right and up around the 'cave' then make a hard left back up over the ridge and down into the wash. From there, follow the wash up a series of waterfalls of increasing height. About 60' after you pass about an 8' waterfall that you have to scramble around the right side of, you will be at a trail crossroads. Make a left here and follow all the way up... heart-shaped rocks will guide you in (you'll see). When you reach the slab (trail ends) just smear up and follow your nose up to the ridge way right of Queen Vic and walk in from the far right. This will put you at the base of the Regular Route.
A fun, easier, scenic, but longer approach is to approach as per epitaph - and hike to the saddle between flying buttress and moose's butte from east, then hike along a nice trail on the north side of moose's butte. It's probably a mile longer, but there's no scrambling up washes and the terrain is really awesome.