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The south face of the queen, it is a little bit of a scramble to get to it but these are some of the best and definitely the hardest climbs on the Queen. This south side is very easily visible from the road as a string of overhanging cracks near the top of the crag. Not a lot of ground space up here but the climbs make it worth the tight quarters.
Same approach as the rest of Queen, but then scramble up and over the queen via the gully to the right of the wall with Right Side, Between the Lines, and Left Side, or through the gully between Super Squeeze and Curving Crack. Both of these gullies will get you to the top. From here you can jump the practice chimney to set up some TRs or work down the gully on the back right side to get to the base of the climbs.
5 Total Routes
Featured Route For Queen (Southside)
Head straight up the corner right of Death bird and before the wall turns into the practice chimney. The bolting is a little run out so it gets an R bu the climb is a fun short sport line, that you don't need to hit some awful finger jam on! Enjoy, and make sure your belayer is paying attention so you don't deck....[more] Browse More Classics in MT
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