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The south face of the queen, it is a little bit of a scramble to get to it but these are some of the best and definitely the hardest climbs on the Queen. This south side is very easily visible from the road as a string of overhanging cracks near the top of the crag. Not a lot of ground space up here but the climbs make it worth the tight quarters.
Same approach as the rest of Queen, but then scramble up and over the queen via the gully to the right of the wall with Right Side, Between the Lines, and Left Side, or through the gully between Super Squeeze and Curving Crack. Both of these gullies will get you to the top. From here you can jump the practice chimney to set up some TRs or work down the gully on the back right side to get to the base of the climbs.
5 Total Routes
Featured Route For Queen (Southside)
This route doesn't get the credit that it deserves in my opinion. Start on a slightly overhanging bulge and work some beautiful beta through the face and a few bolts into a sallow crack. This one is a challenge for your brain as much as your body, but there are few climbs I have enjoyed the movement on as much. Maybe a little soft for the grade but still a well deserved challenge....[more] Browse More Classics in MT
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