Cactus Slump, The
Cirque of the Climbables
Shark Fin, The
Spy Tower Corridor
Stone Flower Tower
Throne Of The Matriarch
Tower of Power
Watcha Call It Pillar
Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).
There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.
78 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70' Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
The Bloodline 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Olympic Dome
Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the ledge where the route ends. Maneuvering around the p...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Queen Mountain
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Southern California Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic