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Cactus Slump, The
Cirque of the Climbables
Shark Fin, The
Spy Tower Corridor
Stone Flower Tower
Throne Of The Matriarch
Tower of Power
Watcha Call It Pillar
Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure of the Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a), A Fine Line (5.12b) and Survivor (5.13c).
There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5 - 2 hours for the approach.
78 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70' Cirque of the Climbables : Cirque of the Climbables - ...
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Escape to Queen Mountain 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Squirrel Rock
This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arÍte of the formation. This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to la...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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