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Quatermass T 

Quatermass 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 36
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 30, 2012

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1st pitch

Description 

1. 24m 5c Follow a vague leftwards line into a scoop, and step left into the crackline. Follow this, with difficult moves to gain a small incut ledge, and continue to an overhang and an unsound block. Go straight up for 8 metres until moves right along small ledges and past a dubious flake lead to the halfway ledge. Take a stance beneath the twin cracks.
2 12m 5o The twin cracks lead steeply to a belay beneath a large stepped corner.
3 24m 5c Go up the corner for a few metres until level with a thin, rightward-slanting crack in its right wall. A few sharp pulls up the crack lead to better holds and the top. The original finish takes the large stepped corner in its entirety at 4b. Thread belays can be found on the blocks well back.

Protection 

usual rack


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By CrimperE6
From: ca
Oct 30, 2012

3rd pitch seems a bit pointless (if doing the 5c version).
We did the last 2 pitches in one go
By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
4 days ago
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sure, it's not the easiest way out (the 'line of weakness' argument) but it's the best climbing on the route so I wouldn't say pointless! That corner on the left looks pretty chossy, possibly dangerous looking at some of the tottering blocks near the top...