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1. 24m 5c Follow a vague leftwards line into a scoop, and step left into the crackline. Follow this, with difficult moves to gain a small incut ledge, and continue to an overhang and an unsound block. Go straight up for 8 metres until moves right along small ledges and past a dubious flake lead to the halfway ledge. Take a stance beneath the twin cracks.
2 12m 5o The twin cracks lead steeply to a belay beneath a large stepped corner.
3 24m 5c Go up the corner for a few metres until level with a thin, rightward-slanting crack in its right wall. A few sharp pulls up the crack lead to better holds and the top. The original finish takes the large stepped corner in its entirety at 4b. Thread belays can be found on the blocks well back.
Oct 30, 2012
3rd pitch seems a bit pointless (if doing the 5c version).
We did the last 2 pitches in one go