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The name, Quartzite Wasteland, is a playful jab at the the Wasteland of Rifle. While not a destination area like Rifle, locals and visiting climbers will find an enjoyable half-day of quality climbs, including a couple must-do climbs on quality quartzite. No need to fear, this is no wasteland, as the hard quartzite provides for fun climbing on compact rock in a style that is unique for the Western Slope.
Park at the Hanging Lake rest area (exit # 125). Hike east on the bike path, passing the Hanging Lake Trail. A few minutes past the trail is a rockwall/revegetation project within yards of the trail. Just past that is a couple of large boulders in the grass on the left side of the trail. Hike past these boulders and scramble up rock underneath a tree. Above the scrambling, hike on a faint trail that contours the slope underneath a collection of granite crags. This trail heads into the scrub oak before traversing to a large scree slope. Hike up the scree slope on the larger, more stable rocks. Near the top of the scree slope find a faint trail that makes a couple of switchbacks before meeting the quartzite cliff. Hike left ten yards to the first of the climbs, Loss of Innoncence. Total hiking time from the car is 15 to 20 minutes.
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Charcoal Burger Daydream 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : Quartzite Wasteland
This is the most classic of the climbs in this area and has been described as a "must-do" route that is worth the trip alone, along with El Lagarto Borracho.Climb good face holds with a mix of bolts and cams in horizontal seams, passing through one roof and finishing on beautiful white and red marbled quartzite. The crux is getting over and past the roof halfway up. The crux may differ for individuals depending on height....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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