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The Crystal Tower
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Quartz Sports 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 2,051
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 2, 2001

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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Quartz Sports starts just to the right of Mineral Museum and before Hot Rocks in the grey sector of the wall. Like Mineral Museum, Quartz faces South and gets excellent sun most of the day. Head up a slab/seam system for four clips. A right-facing corner gets the fifth clip and the first crux at 5.12 a/b; not bad for the hands, but truly terrible feet. This is so well protected that you either make the move or you don't, no cop-outs for the scary pro. A horizontal jam, a few clips, and a short head wall bring you to the second crux at 5.12 a - pulling over the roof. There is a killer, quartz blob up there, but you will have to figure out your own beta. Juice up, power the move, and race up to the anchor. Kudos to Ken Trout for the fine eye that spotted the route and four stars for the overall fun climbing, good stone, continuity, and perplexing problem of the first crux.

Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 9 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Nate Weitzel
Jun 30, 2002

A fine climb with great rock. The first crux move is so irritating, again it has spit me off and laughed at me. Absolutely nothing there for feet, miserable. However, if you can get past this, the upper crux is fantastic, fun moves and good position make it a must do.
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

The best route of its grade in all of Clear Creek!
By Robbie the Dog
Jul 22, 2007

I found the small runout after the second-to-last bolt (the one over the roof) to be the psychological crux. you have to make some moves above the bolt to get to the clipping jug for the next, with a possibly awkward fall. It was a hot day, though, so the hands felt a bit slimy.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Stellar route, the best of the grade in the canyon. With that said, it's very solid at the grade.
By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Mar 22, 2011

Right there with you, Monty. Did this again yesterday for the first time in 8 years and had forgotten what a brilliant, cerebral line this is. Needs patience, precision, then a burst of power at the end.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2013

Great route, but I'd argue that Peer Review is the best 12b in the Clear Creek. Great stone on that one. Nonetheless, a great route with interesting and fun movement....