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Midway between Black Slabbeth and Oscar de la Cholla is a light-colored buttress with a shallow, left-facing corner that slants to the right. Follow this corner, then move left on a left-facing flake. After a few moves above the flake, cruise right and head for the small roof. Pull the roof on the left (easier than it seems from below), heading straight up a couple of short faces to the anchors.
The roof also goes on the right, which is probably a little easier. If the move at the roof looks a little spooky, a variety of finger-sized cams can be placed just below the roof in a horizontal crack.
Overall, a fun route with a good variety of moves.
8 bolts plus anchors.
|By Edward Jenner|
Sep 8, 2003
The roof (although not the crux) might be a bit scary for the budding .10 leader without an extra piece of gear. The bolt above the roof is quite a ways up there and the first clipping opportunity is from an overhanging stance with reasonably large handholds. I wouldn't want to fall trying to make that clip.
|By Brian Adzima|
Mar 15, 2009
If you can't say something nice....
[Internet crickets chriping]
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 5, 2010
I thought this one was fun all the way up! A bit pumpy but not as bad as it looks. Not very technical.