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North Face
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Moonshine S 
Quarter Inch from Falling T,S 
Quartermoon T 

Quarter Inch from Falling 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Toula, James Garrett, May 2007
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 8, 2013

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Description 

Perfectly named, this route is a full on adventure. A Quarter Inch from Falling has the potential to be over 15 feet of flying!

This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.

P1: Climb Quartermoon or Moonshine to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.

P2: From the Quartermoon ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.

Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.

You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the Quartermoon chimney and then down climbing.


Location 

A Quarter Inch from Falling starts on the large ledge above the first pitch of Quartermoon.


Protection 

The new guide recommends a set of cams w/ extra 2's and 3's, however the biggest piece I placed was a .75 bd. I'd recommend a set of medium to large nuts and cams from .2 to .75 to keep it light. I'd also bring about 4 to 5 slings and 6 draws.



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By James Garrett
Apr 15, 2013

With Sandro von Känel, and because "he doesn't know how to climb cracks" :)...to avoid the wide section he blazed up the steep bolt-less face to the right. Exciting to witness. Some wide gear would certainly still be on my lead rack for this pumpy pitch. This is a bold and daring line, be careful. New top side refreshment container replaced deteriorating one that was sans cap. Thanks to previous mystery visitor's offering.
Trash and broken bottles removed from Corral Crags and Wolfenstein campsites. All in all, thanks to everybody, the area seems cleaner and neater than years ago.
Stellar climbing weather.