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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Hasting's Cutoff 
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Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
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Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
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Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
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Zombies on the Lookout 

Quantum Mechanics 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Larry Marquardt and Chris Reveley
Page Views: 540
Submitted By: Larry Marquardt on Aug 31, 2009
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  • Description 

    This route begins at the end of the first pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab in an incipient crack above a 2' to 4' high piece of deadwood. The crack ends about 20 or 25 feet up. The route goes straight up from the top of the crack and to the Lower Ramp on very small holds. The rock is clean and solid. The rating is based on what I was generally capable of at the time, but may be erroneous (harder).


    Location 

    Start about 20 or 25 feet right of the second pitch of the Direct Start to Super Slab. The deadwood may no longer be there, but the crack is the only feature between the old aid line (erroneously attributed to me and Chris Revely) and the sharp arete to the right.


    Protection 

    There is one tiny brass placement in the crack. Otherwise there is no protection. I would advise you to take this pitch *very* seriously. It deserves its X rating! On the first ascent in 1973, a 165' rope caused the second to have to climb up a way in order to set a dubious belay. Take a 60 meter rope!



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    By Larry Marquardt
    Aug 31, 2009

    P.S. Jim Erickson has the route description but not the rating (my fault) right in Rocky Heights, 1980. I'd give this four stars if it were better protected.

    By Larry Marquardt
    Sep 7, 2010

    Hiked up to the area today and saw unequivocally that the route Chris and I did was virtually the same as Super Arete. Not claiming FA here, couldn't care less, but that's where we climbed in 1973 sans bolts. This route should probably be removed as a separate climb. Cheers!