Quantum Mechanic's Arete
||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Nathan Brown - rope solo Mike Reardon belayed for redpoint|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||824|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Mar 4, 2012|
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Not a great photo, but good for reference.
This thing was originally under a thick layer of lichen (not of the endangerd variety), but after a good bit of cleaning up it revealed some really cool climbing. Down low there is a funky corner and up high there are lots of quartz features for holds. The crux utilizes what is likely the smallest hold that I've ever actually been able to "hold" onto, hence the name.
Climb the short fist crack in the right side of a flake to a stance and get a medium cam. Continue up using cool quartz knobs past a bolt to a right diagonaling corner. Follow this corner past a purple TCU and to the bolt line. Follow the bolt line up the face and arete past some thin moves and cool crystals to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. 90'
This is the first right on the left wall of Dillard Canyon proper a couple minutes past Groover.
light rack for the start. Bolt protected from the second one up.
BETA PHOTO: Most of the climbing takes place just left of the ...
From: Menlo Park, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Awesome! Now there's 3 killer aretes to do in dillard: this one, mechanical bull, and the dillard arete. All dry extremely fast. One could do the arete tour and climb steep aretes all day - quite atypical climbing compared to the stuff on the main face.