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 ADVANCED
P.A.'s Mother
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Altar Boy T,S 
Archbishop, The T 
Coed Crack T 
E.B. Jeebies S 
Exposed Cleavage S 
High Hopes S,TR 
Hobnail Arete T,S 
Mama's Boy S 
Mother of Invention S,TR 
Pissant S 
Quality S 
R.R. Crossing S 
Regular Route T 
Throulin's Chimney T 
Throulin's Crack T 
Tough Guy S 
Two Pinches to Paradise S 

Quality 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 1,875
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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John Ross concentrating on Quality.

Description 

Balancy, steep climbing on small edges with some sidepulls, pinches and a finger jam or two. The holds are there but some require a bit of hunting to find.

The climbing is a fairly continuous level of difficulty with a small roof between the first and second bolts and the bit between the last bolt and the anchors being just a bit harder.

There is an 18-inch wide ledge from which you can belay and start the route. If you do so, then the route is about 50 feet in length. If you start and belay from the wider, more comfortable, level area below the route then the length is about 65 feet.

Location 

This is the bolted route immediately right of Regular Route, the obvious crack up the right face on the west side of P.A.'s Mother. Alternatively, it is the second-from-the-right bolted route on that face.

Protection 

6 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.


Photos of Quality Slideshow Add Photo
10 Quality 5.9
BETA PHOTO: 10 Quality 5.9
Kip Henrie climbing Quality early on a June mornin...
Kip Henrie climbing Quality early on a June mornin...
Dan climbing Quality. first to second bolt was tri...
Dan climbing Quality. first to second bolt was tri...

Comments on Quality Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2012
By Darren Knezek
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The route's called, Quality.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. The crux for me was low down, I think between the first and second bolts. The crimpers out left there just aren't quite as good as they look. After that it's pretty cruiser climbing.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really got to keep working the sequences all the way to the top. Nice to have a route that keeps you focused.
By Dan Steinbeigle
Sep 13, 2009

Definitely focus on the feet. Little footholds, side-pull crimpers, all the way up. If you can get the technique, it isn't too hard. Fun route, though.
By Jason Madsen
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

hardest part is clipping the 3rd bolt it's really weird
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a lot like Mama's Boy on the right to me. Fairly sustained, balancy, great quality rock, and a few times you have to go looking for the holds. I also thought they were about the same difficulty. Both the routes are fun because they require using several different kinds of holds and techniques, and you do need to keep pretty focused.
By ScowHound
Aug 9, 2010

agree --- the 3rd bolt is quite balancy - especially if you don't have a long reach --- I'm 5'10". On Saturday, 8/7/10 my son was belaying a climbing partner friend. My son was belaying from the lower area. The climber slipped as he was clipping the 3rd bolt. Due to the rope that was played-out for the clip, he decked on the shelf (where you could belay from)~15 foot fall. He was in the "rope stretch" phase of the fall so the impact wasn't too severe ---- just a really bruised butt. Good idea to play-out just enough rope for the 3rd bolt clip.
By Chris-Baird
Sep 21, 2010

Anyone have tips for specific holds for clipping the third bolt?
By darrell hodges
Nov 2, 2010

Chris- there is a good jug right above the third bolt that is the best option for clipping. Once you get that jug you also have good feet.
Trying to clip the third bolt from below- off what looks like it's going to be a jug but turns out to be a sloping rail - would be iffy.
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really sustained, IMO, but I'm weak.
By Canyon Copa
Jun 1, 2012

Good route with holds at weird angles that make you have to shift your balance throughout. Will tire you out early if you're not in good shape which can make the finish pretty desperate.
By Tanner Wixom
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree the crux is low. The second and third bolts were the most difficult. My partner concocted probably the biggest "safe" fall you could possibly get on this route. He was reaching clear above his head to clip the 6th bolt. Being that there is 8-10 feet between bolt 5 and 6, that translated to about 13-15 feet of rope out when he fell. He ended up just below the little roof feature near the bottom.