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Quality alpine rock routes near Petit
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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 2, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background
Heading up to The Park in a couple weeks for a three day trip into the back country. We're planning on hiking into one area and staying there for the duration of the trip. Planning on getting on Petit one of those days so I was wondering if there was any other quality routes in the area (or within a half hour walking distance). Looking at the South face of Zowie's on Otis and South Prow of Sharkstooth but neither sound too spectacular. I would like the potential climbs to be at least grade III in length and under 5.9 in grade. Or if anyone has any beta on the mentioned routes and some info proving they aren't choss piles that would work too. Thanks.

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By Elijah Flenner
Sep 2, 2013
The Northeast ridge of Sharkestooth and Kor route on the Sabre.

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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 2, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background
Northeast Ridge is a bit too short and easy for what I'm looking for. I heard Kor route is really sandbagged and harder than .9, this not true?

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By AnthonyM
Sep 2, 2013
Maroon Bells-Bell Cord Couloir
Culp-Bossier up Hallett...
There are tons of others... Sharkstooth was fun and Spearhead looks pretty sweet too... (we hiked up to the base of it and weren't planning to climb that day but wished we had brought our stuff...)

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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background
Been on Culp Bossier, and Love route, also been up North Ridge of Spearhead. I'd love to get on some harder stuff on Spearhead but the partner I'm climbing with isn't ready for anything above a 9.

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By J1.
From Boulder, Colorado
Sep 3, 2013
Towliee
South Face on Zowie is actually really good. Start on the lower buttress in the big dihederal. I think its called, One for the red team? Adds a pitch or two of 8 to the climb before the summit tower crux pitch. Its worthy.
Also, there's been some new route development on a few of the other towers on Otis peak. There in MP. Check-em out, most were put up by my bud Cor 2 years ago... Piton D'Or (Golden Piton) 5.9 ,on the Piton Spire, that be a good one to check out.
Hope that helps.
Have fun!

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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Sep 3, 2013
LawHous,

SW Corner of the Petit is pretty good. South Prow on Sharkstooth is just less travelled and feels more like an adventure. South Face of Zowie, as mentioned is pretty good. Tourist Tragedy is pretty decent, but you have to make sure to find the easiest line. It's not hard to bump it past 5.9.

If you're willing to go around into the next valley south, you get all of Spearhead, Pagoda, Arrowhead, and even McHenry's.

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By Dylan Cousins
Sep 3, 2013
Forget the Sky Pond area altogether and go to Glacier Gorge. Do the Barb - there's only one 5.10 move and your second can easily yank through on gear if you leave a piece there. The rest is some of the best 5.8-5.9 around. The east prow of the Spearhead is also decent (crux is a 9+ finger crack, but again easily yanked through by your second).

5.9 in perfect granite abounds on Arrowhead as well - the stone in GG is much better than on the Petit which is really just 2 good pitches and a lot of chimney climbing.

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By Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2013
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. Whiteny.
No one’s mentioned the Sickle on Spearhead?

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By Dylan Cousins
Sep 3, 2013
Ryan Kempf wrote:
No one’s mentioned the Sickle on Spearhead?


That one is going to be pretty hard for the second to yank through the crux on gear. Plus the last pitch, while not at all dangerous for the second, provides some exciting swing potential - might spook a 5.9-type follower (I was spooked on lead).

I've always wanted to try the Rain Dance/ Golden Pillar on Arrowhead. Looks good.

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