Quaker State 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Tom McMillan 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Ben Sachs on Jan 27, 2009 |
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Stu at the crux.
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Description This is the obvious crack feature in the center of the left Amphitheater wall. Great climbing with an exciting crux at the top. The centerpiece of the area and one of the best routes at Moores.
Location Amphitheater, left wall.
Protection Standard rack. This route can seem run out due to tricky placements. However, there is gear available for every section. Get a creative piece for the roof right off the ground. After the high crux, there is a good placement that is hard to see. Many just run it to the top. Fixed anchor with rings.
Jeremy on Quaker State on a sweltering summer day
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John Provotero c.a. 1989. Note the existence of be...
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Scott cruises Quaker State.
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By alexanderblum
From: Flat Place, NC
Aug 30, 2010
| It's safe, but really tough to protect well onsight. The possible big whip is safe, though (so i've heard). Awesome route! |
By Carolina
From: Farmington, nc
Jul 18, 2011
| Steller Climb! Best Climb I have done in NC so far.... |
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011
| Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive. |
By Heath Alexander
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Nov 28, 2011
| One of the most beautiful lines at Moores. I worked on this off and on all season. Wish I could say I did it ground up, but I top-roped it before I started working on the lead. Be prepared for a moderate runout at the high crux; the gear is solid but well below your feet. I took the fall a few times and it is very safe. Also ended up with a groundfall length runout at the top, but the climbing is easy. I think there may be some gear after the crux, but I was too pumped to stop and place it. |
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| If you are skilled, and maybe a little creative, with your gear you can do the entire climb without ever having to do a move harder than 5.7 with gear below your feet. You can actually get great overhead gear for the crux if you have some skills with tricams, and another more shallow piece ~3' lower than that. Classic Climb! |
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