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Quail Springs Area

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AFPA Rock 
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White Cliffs of Dover 

Quail Springs Area 


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Location: 34.0402, -116.1976 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 135,133
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Nov 19, 2002
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Backlit Mojave Aster, Joshua Tree NP

Description 

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.

In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.


Getting There 

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.


153 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',54],['1 Star',78],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',12],['5.8',23],['5.9',30],['5.10',43],['5.11',18],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Quail Springs Area:
Wind Tower   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Vagmarken Hill : Vagmarken Buttress Left
Tiptoe   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face
Cranny   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face
Boulder Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   AFPA Rock
Ace of Spades   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Popular Mechanics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
B for Beers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Negropolis Hillside : The Negropolis
Right Baskerville Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Baskerville Rock
Tossed Green   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Hound Rock
Make or Break Flake   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Stone Hinge   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Field and Stream   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Left Sawdust Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face
Good Housekeeping   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Conqueror Worm   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Erotic City   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Erotic Dome
Soviet Union   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Rig...
Butterfly Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face
Browse More Classics in Quail Springs Area

Featured Route For Quail Springs Area
a. Popular Mechanics <br /> <br />b. Good Housekeeping <br /> <br />c. Field and Stream

Field and Stream 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Quail Springs Area Slideshow Add Photo
Looking north on a windy spring day.
Looking north on a windy spring day.
Spring flowers with Vagmarken Hillside in the distance, Joshua Tree NP
Spring flowers with Vagmarken Hillside in the dist...
Cactus in bloom.
Cactus in bloom.
enough said (Photo: Steven Keates)
enough said (Photo: Steven Keates)
Springtime near Vagmarken Buttress, Joshua Tree NP
Springtime near Vagmarken Buttress, Joshua Tree NP
Chocolate Boulders. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Chocolate Boulders.
Photo by Blitzo.
Snowy hills near Quail Springs. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Snowy hills near Quail Springs.
Photo by Blitzo.
Contemplating the next move just after the crux. Photo by Tara Stiefel.
Contemplating the next move just after the crux. P...
Rock detail, Joshua Tree NP
Rock detail, Joshua Tree NP
White Cliffs of Dover. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
White Cliffs of Dover.
Photo by Blitzo.
Sunrise-Quail Springs. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Sunrise-Quail Springs.
Photo by Blitzo.
Heavy fog near Quail Springs, Joshua Tree NP
Heavy fog near Quail Springs, Joshua Tree NP
Wonderful sunset leaving the park
Wonderful sunset leaving the park
Quail Springs Area, Joshua Tree NP
Quail Springs Area, Joshua Tree NP
Relic from the past at Hound Rock, Joshua Tree NP
Relic from the past at Hound Rock, Joshua Tree NP
Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park
Spring wildflowers in the Quail Springs area.
Spring wildflowers in the Quail Springs area.
Pump house. <br />Photo by Blitzo. <br />
Pump house.
Photo by Blitzo.
Quail Springs Area, Joshua Tree NP
Quail Springs Area, Joshua Tree NP
Negropolis Hill. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Negropolis Hill.
Photo by Blitzo.
Relics from the past, Joshua Tree NP
Relics from the past, Joshua Tree NP
Comments on Quail Springs Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 28, 2011

Really pleased that Chris Miller at Mountainproject had the imagination, wisdom, and good sense to retain the name Quail Springs for this area and not follow Randy Vogel's guides and call it trashcan rock.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 28, 2011

I believe if you read any of the information above you'll see he does have the good sense to use the name Trashcan Rock, as it has been known to climbers for decades.

By RTM
Aug 30, 2011

Bartlett also refers to it as Trashcan Rock, yet the old Wolfe guides call it Quail Springs. Curious?

By Murf
Aug 30, 2011

The rock itself is Trashcan Rock, the area (including much more than Trashcan) is Quail Springs. It is the pullout itself that is in question; the so-called "Quail Springs Day Use Area".

By RTM
Aug 31, 2011

From Wolfe's 1979 edition - "...a small formation known variously as the Quail Springs Picnic Area, The Wye, Trashcan Rock or just Picnic Area."

I guess Trashcan Rock stuck!

By Randy
Sep 5, 2011

Hahaha,

Actually, it was called Trashcan Rock by climbers long before Wolfe's 1976 guide (least of all the 1979 edition). By 1973, the name Trashcan Rock was firmly established. While the Park Service has long referred to the area as Quail Springs Picnic Area, they never named the formation.

BTW: No one I met ever called it "The Wye" or "Picnic Area."