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Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: P1--unknown / P2, P3--May, 1976--Geoff Radford, Richard Parker
Season: Fall Summer Spring
Page Views: 8,237
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Jul 5, 2008

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Janine at the crux

Description 

Quadraphenia is a classic route with varied climbing.

1: Climb up a nice crack corner up to a small right facing dihedral to a nice ledge. (5.7+; Natural Anchor)

2: Mantle onto a small ledge with thin (PG/R) pro until you reach the crack, continue up to a large double overhang via crack. (5.6; small, semi-hanging, belay w/natural anchor)

3: Climb past a sick overhang on the right with nice exposure that turns to a really nice corner/dihedral to another sick overhang. (5.7; bolted anchor)

4: Follow broken cracks and face, veering left to the top.

Pitches can be combined in different sequence if desired, but typically people combine pitches 2 and 3.

Descent: It is possible to make two double-rope rappels from the top of the 3rd pitch. If you plan on summiting, walk to the climbers right,then make your way (carefully!!) back down to the bolted anchor atop pitch 3. Best consult the topo.

Some recent route history: There was a pin on pitch two placed as recently as 2008. The pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties. Don Mellor's guide has no mention of the pin and says to climb with little pro to the crack.

For more route history grab a copy of the Adirondack climbing guide "Adirondack Rock"



Location 

Route is located on the left side of the crag. It starts 50' left of a prominent left facing corner, and chimney.

Protection 

Standard


Photos of Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara Slideshow Add Photo
First pitch of Quadrophenia <br /> <br />
First pitch of Quadrophenia

Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Matt Climbing the crack after the roof on the second pitch
Matt Climbing the crack after the roof on the seco...
Digging P3 on a perfect fall day.
Digging P3 on a perfect fall day.
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Summit! The photo has no justice!
Summit! The photo has no justice!
A wonderful day on a wonderful climb! Pitch One
A wonderful day on a wonderful climb! Pitch One
Converse on P1 of Quedrephenia 30 yrs after our friend and climbing mentor did the first ascent.
Converse on P1 of Quedrephenia 30 yrs after our fr...
P1 of quad... nothin like 50's in november. James Debella/Tim Dufrane <br />
P1 of quad... nothin like 50's in november. James ...
looking down from the top of pitch 3 onto the second roof.
looking down from the top of pitch 3 onto the seco...
beautiful November day on the top of pitch 3.
beautiful November day on the top of pitch 3.
Waving down after stringing pitches 2 & 3 together.  Photo - John Hoffmann
Waving down after stringing pitches 2 & 3 together...
Starting up P1 of Quadrophenia(5.7+), Hurricane Crag, Adirondacks, NY
Starting up P1 of Quadrophenia(5.7+), Hurricane Cr...
Hooray for choss! P4
Hooray for choss! P4

Comments on Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2014
By Mike Caruso
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Great climb. Worth an annual visit. Combines face and crack climbing. Gear - standard rack with cams to a #2 Camalot. Small Loweballs help protect P2 but not a must.
By D Goldberg
From: NH
Nov 14, 2010

One 60m double-rope rappel will get you from the top of the 3rd pitch to the ground with very little rope to spare. Knot those ends!
By Eric Kuenstner
From: Washington, DC
Nov 14, 2010

excellent rock quality and exposure! I don't know about the last pitch though, rapped from the top of the third as it looked chossy and was going to get dark soon. used a lot more TCU's than I expected.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Link pitch 2 and 3 together. The belay stance in between is kind of crappy.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

"Natural belays" = tiny trees. Belay at P1 being the less problematic, and there are places near the dying tree to backup with pro. The second belay is utter shit. Managed a micro stopper and C4 .3 to backup the tiny birch. Under the roof was too wet and awkward to get a good anchor built. Unfortunately doing P2 and 3 together might have resulted in running out of ideal gear and/or draws, but would have skipped the second belay. Protecting the roof sections eats gear for lunch.

I liked P1 and 2 the best because they were what I think of when I set off to climb in the ADKs. P3 reminds me of the Gunks, but after discussion with this page's creator (just happen to climb with him often) he reminded me that to be a true Gunks climb we would have pulled the roofs. lol
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Jul 18, 2011

The third pitch is definitely the money pitch. That said, the belay for the P3 can be quite awful. We, possibly mistakenly, set up a hanging belay right before the roof section of the third pitch begins. The tree some people probably use as an anchors would never be something I'd trust my life with. It's simply too scrawny.

I'm definitely not a very big fan of overbolting, but I do have to say a set of fixed achors at the top of P! and P2 would be quite amazing and would easily make this a super classic.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It's possible to make solid gear anchors at P1 and P2, it's just not straight-forward. That said, and as I have comment previously...link P2 and P3, you will be happier. Bring doubles if in doubt.
As well, a flake on the forth pitch finally detached this past winter. Be aware as your work left above the bolted belay that there is some loose debris.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you decide to climb the 4th pitch(do it, it's fun...) be very careful not to knock loose rock down. This pitch is actually quite fun and protects fairly easily.

Personally, I thought that the standard P3(I linked 2 and 3) was harder than P1. Definitely mentally challenging if you're just breaking into leading 5.7 and 5.8. Luckily, jugs are almost always lurking.

Descend carefully. I was able to make 2 rappels with a small section of exposed ledge traversing in between. I think a 70m is necessary due to the last rappel.

Fantastic climb.
Melissa Feldmann works her way around the classic second overhang on P3(5.7) of Quadrophenia, Hurricane Crag, Adirondacks, NY
Melissa Feldmann works her way around the classic second overhang on P3(5.7) of Quadrophenia, Hurricane Crag, Adirondacks, NY
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Amazing Climbing! First pitch is a fun warm up for the second pitch which pulls through an awesome roof (crux) then up a corner to a ledge with anchors. I recommend doing the third pitch up to the summit for amazing views on a nice day!
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jun 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

  • * ISSUE ** -- Until very recently there was a critical piton at the start of pitch 2. This piton protected the first 5.6 moves from the belay. It is no longer there and there's no gear available (which is why there was a piton). Without this piton the beginning of pitch 2 is currently R.

This was reported to me by two close friends who climbed the route sometime mid-June 2012. I don't know if someone can or is planning on bolting or replacing the piton. Climb with caution.
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Jul 1, 2012

I would strongly urge that no one attempt to replace the piton. The fixed protection should be replaced in the same manner as was the original. Altering the nature of the pro is altering the climb.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What Mike says is not fact, it's an opinion. Hopefully someone puts something there.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Jul 9, 2012

FWIW, I climbed this yesterday and can confirm there is no piton on P2. The moves are definitely R now, as in years past I don't remember feeling it was that scary there! It is possible to climb the face just right of the open book which while also unprotected gains the horizontal ledge above a little more quickly. I found this to be a little more comfortable simply because it wasn't quite as balancy a move (better feet and hands I think). Anyway, a 5.7/5.8 leader might find this very uncomfortable until a piton is replaced. (I agree it should be up to the FAs to decide if a bolt is acceptable)
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Jul 13, 2012

I have found out that this pin was recently placed as recently as four years ago. Apparently the pin was placed in a rogue style with no consensus and no consultation with the FA parties.
The former pin was not placed during the FA. Don Mellor describes the pitch as having little protection (until the crack is reached).

I for one see no reason to alter the route. For that matter this is rock climbing and climbers see things differently. Fixed gear gets on routes sometimes by accident. Hopefully we can minimize our impact to the ADK and preserve our wondrous resource for our children to enjoy. Thanks for the input.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 15, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

adirondackrock.com/corrections...

They've at least updated Pitch 2 to PG for the next guide printing. Hopefully the word gets out of this change. Just sucks for all those who have older guides and/or people who have climbed the route before that may not hear of the change. Guess that's part of the activity - holds, bolts, and rap stations aren't permanent.
By JHaas
Jul 17, 2012

The descent beta, from the top of the cliff, is incorrect. If you top out on Quadraphenia, you only need one 60m rope and you will make three rappels from anchors that are not on the route! see Adirondack Rock for details.
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2012

So about this runout on p2... how bad is it?

It's 5.6 if I understand correctly, and you're making face moves until you gain a crack? How far are you going before this crack? Is it 5.6 the whole way?
By Derek Doucet
Jul 26, 2012

The runout is brief. Maybe a body length or two? The "issue" if one could even call it that, is that it's right off the belay, so any fall would have the potential to factor 2 the anchor, which is somewhat finicky to build, by the way.

In reality you're much more likely to simply land on the belay ledge. While still not good at all, this is far better than a full factor 2 on to your anchor.

I guess I'd characterize this section as requiring care and a bit of caution, but certainly not as a reason to stay away. Of course YMMV, especially if 5.7 is near your lead limit. Best not to fall off...
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Nov 13, 2013

The first moves of P2 I protected with a micronut... not R exactly, but you should be solid on 5.6 to be comfortable here. You would be jumping down maybe 5 ft to the ledge if you blow it.
By LamontagnedeGatineau
Nov 22, 2013

Adding a piton or a bolt on pitch 2 would not make this a real ADIRONDACK climb. I found I could somewhat protect the iffy section with small nuts, as long as I had in mind that falling was not an option :-)
By KVRob
May 3, 2014

Great route, but all this talk about replacing the pin on P2 is a little overboard. You can get a small piece of gear there, and the climbing, while thin, is not difficult. Plus, it will keep the riff raff off!
By mdobbs
From: Jay, NY
Jul 7, 2014

Had a great climb on Quad sunday. I’m glad I didn’t read this comment thread beforehand, otherwise I would have been more concerned about P2 than necessary! There’s about 20’ of run out from the belay, but I was able to protect it with a couple RPs and a microcam. I’m 75% sure they would have held a fall, which gave me the head-space I needed to have fun climbing this pitch.

There’s a broad spectrum of opinions about the placing of the fixed pin on P2 and its subsequent removal. As a broad rule, I agree with the ethic that adding bolts and fixed pins to a climb is a bad thing, especially if it alters the aesthetics of the climb. But there are exceptions.

Here’s another view that could be taken:
Quadrophenia was first climbed in 1976 (three years after the Who released the namesake album). I’m guessing that Geoff Radford and Richard Parker (the FAs) carried a hammer and had knife-blades in their arsenal. There are several seams in pitch two that would eat up knife-blades. If they did carry a hammer and pitons, then we could all dig out our old hammers, and climb this pitch ultra-safe (and in the style of the original FAs) by placing and removing a knife-blade on P2. Do we want each ascent party to do that???- NO way!- the pitch would change its nature quickly with all the pin-scars, and on a route this popular it’d be no time before there would be good finger holds there. If the pitch is well protected with a ‘blade, then a reasonable option is for a single fixed knife-blade to be placed permanently on P2. This would be the closest thing to the original character of the climb with minimum scarring of the rock. Perhaps whoever placed the fixed piece there 10 years ago may have been thinking along these lines(?). What was the thought process for the person who removed it?

Has anyone tried to contact the FAs to ask their opinion of a fixed pin on P2? (they must be 70-90 years old now!).
By Derek Doucet
Jul 14, 2014

Just corresponded with Richard Parker. Here's what he had to say:

"Yes, Bara Bara or Quad…a great route. Hard to remember what gear went where in those days but I can say that we would have placed a pin or two without any qualms if it was required to make a pitch R as opposed to X. Seems like the knife blade rings a bell and your idea makes perfect sense to me, although I simply do not recall…we were in that transition from pins to stoppers and hexes. Geoff and I both learned first with pins. Seems like we stopped carrying hammers every time out around 76 or 77, often to make secure the in situ pins and to clean stubborn stoppers…"

Richard also went on to say that any questions best addressed to the first ascentionists should go to Jamie Cunningham and his partner, as they were the first to report an ascent, and Richard only shared details of his and Geoff's ascent with Jim Lawyer for the new Adirondack guidebook as a tribute to Geoff after he passed away.

Regarding his mention of "my idea", I was unclear in my message to him that I was merely sharing the conversation on Mountain Project, and was not in any way advocating for fixed gear.
By Dominic Rickicki
Aug 30, 2014

Fantastic climb, especially pitch 3. Pitch 4 is kind of just a means to top out but its still fun and theres cool quartz bands on the pitch for you rock nerds out there. The rappels are sooo bushy though.
By jmbx
Aug 31, 2014

I didn't think the belay at top of P2 (i.e. before the roofs) was that bad, there is gear along with the small tree. Some of us like extra gear and belayer feedback for the intimidating roofs. Also, the rope can get constricted in the roof crack of P3, placing gear out the crack can block the rope from getting too far into the constriction.