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Quack of Ducks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,013
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Nice crack through rough rock. On the wide hands side. Link this up with Crack of Dust. In fact, you could probably climb them as one long pitch if you mind the gear right.

After you get up this consider setting a TR on Cave Crack off of the bolted anchor (climber's left) for Never Intended. Cave Crack is an old-school 5.9 chimney. It starts just left of the Crack of Dust anchor. Great Steck-Salathe training!

Location 

Basically a second pitch of Crack of Dust but much less slick. Climb the crack to the right of the anchor.

Protection 

Cams, hand to wide hand size. Gear anchor. Walk off way left toward The Blocks.


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By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Stiff start followed by perfect hands to the top.
By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012

Bouldery start, but the rough interior of the crack gives good traction. Tape your hands for this one.
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Possible to do tapeless, but only if you don't really value the skkin on your knuckles and the back of your hands.
By Brad W
From: San Diego
Apr 1, 2012

A few pumpy moves off the ground, but great friction and solid jams. Eases up pretty quickly, but stays fun. My favorite crack at the gorge currently, don't believe it took me this long to get on it. Bring a BD3 for the start, this crack takes pro anywhere.
By Elush
From: CA
Mar 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great crack featuring some really good rock quality. Lots of friction not your typical mission gorge slick rock. Very similar to the crux of "Battle of the Bulge" on "Puppy Dome" Tuolomne Meadows,CA. A #2 c4 will protect this crack. there is a small section near the bottom that would take a #3 but it is only a couple of feet with bomber #2's on either side. However if you are building an Anchor at the top a #3 is useful. you could also belay at the bolted anchor of "Never Intended." If you do this be sure to place a directional for your follower.